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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/americangarmentc01enge 



THE 

American Garment Cutter 

FOR 

WOMEN'S GARMENTS 



SECOND EDITION 



fJA complete, practical, up-to-date 
treatise on the cutting of 

WOMEN'S GARMENTS 

according to the latest and most 
approved method 



AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 
NEW YORK LONDON PARIS - BERLIN - VIENNA 



INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. 1913 



Entered according to the act of Congress in the year 1913 
by 

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY 

In the office of the Librarian at Washington. D. C. 



All Rights reserved Reproduction Interdite 

Vervielfaeltigung Untersagt 



6ZO 
V°i . 3 






/3 



:CI.A332363 



Jlrpfarp to tlte Grotto iEfltttott 



*»rHE First Edition of the American Garment Cutter met with un- 
i\ I precedented success, in reference both to its acceptance by the 
^^ Ladies' Tailoring Trade as a work on cutting par excellence 
and the demand for the book itself. 

The call for this auxiliary instructor in the drafting and cutting 
of ladies tailor-made apparel by a practical, yet simple system, has 
completely exhausted the First Edition; and in devoting ourselves to 
the Second Edition we have carefully considered the up-to-date needs 
of the trade in its preparation. 

Therefore, while fully covering the matter of detailed consider- 
ation of all standard garments, the taking of the measures, the cor- 
rect drafting of the patterns, tables of proportions, and other features 
so highly commended in the first edition, we have recognized the im- 
perative need of "modernizing," so to say the treatment of the sub- 
ject, and while not getting away from the fundamental principles as 
set forth in the earlier issue, the present work has been revised and 
supplemented with much new material and many illustrations, mak- 
ing it in every way a worthy successor to the First Edition. 

In the satisfaction that this work will duplicate the successof the 
American Garment Cutter, First Edition, we present it for your 
practical use and consideration. 

The Author, 

GUSTAV ENGELMANN 



DEDICATION 



TO the thousands of Tailors throughout 
the World whose lives are unselfishly 
consecrated to the production of perfect fitting 
garments for women, this work is dedicated in 
the most cordial wishes of 

The ^Author. 



Measurements 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS 

WOMEN 



Sizes 


32 


34 


36 


38 


40 


42 


44 


46 


48 


50 


Bust 


32 


34 


36 


38 


40 


42 


44 


46 


48 


50 


Waist 


23/ 


24 


25 


26 


27/ 


29 


31 


33/ 


36 


39 


Hip 


37 


39 


41 


43 


45 


47 


49 


51 


54 


57 


Neck 


133/ 


14K 


1434 


15/ 


153/ 


16/ 


16?4 


17/ 


173/ 


18/ 


Across Chest 


14/ 


IS 


15/ 


16 


16/ 


17 


17/ 


18 


18/ 


19 


Length of Waist Front 


7%-ny 


7/-17/ 


7/-17/ 


7/-17/ 


7/-17/ 


73/-17 


734-1654 


734-16/ 


8 -16/ 


8 -16 


1-2 

Shoulder Height Front 


&y 4 - 6/ 


9 - 7 


9/- 7/ 


9/- 7/ 


9M- 7y 4 


10 -8 


10Z-8/ 


10/-8/ 


1034-834 


11 -9 


1-2 

Shoulder Height Back 


8 - 5 f4 


8/ 8 - s% 


8/- 6 


83/8- 6/ 


8/- 6/ 


854- 6-/ 


8-Z- 6/ 


8%- 65/ 


9 - 6M 


9/- 6/ 


Neck Height and to 
Waist 


7 -153/s 


7/ 8 -l 5 H 


7/-15/ 


7./ 8 -15/ 


7/-155/3- 


7S4-15.Z 


73/-15% 


7^-16 


8 -16/ 


8/-16-H 


Across Back 


13 


13/ 


14 


•14/ 


15 


15/ 


16 


16/ 


17 


17/ 


Under Arm 


sz 


8/ 


8/ 


8/ 


8/ 


8 


7M 


7/ 


7/ 


7 


Shoulder 


5/ 


55/s 


5M 


5/8 


6 


6/ 


6/ 


6% 


6/ 


6% 


Inside Sleeve 


18 


18/ 18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 



Diagram \ 



10 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



PROPORTIONAL WIDTHS 

From 4Feet 4in.to 6 Feet. 5-8 



6 FEET 



4FT.4IN 




Diagram 2 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



U 



6 "" PROPORTIONAL LENGTHS 




Diagram 3 



12 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES. 

In taking a customer's measure it is absolutely essential that she be treated in such a 
manner that she feel perfectly at ease in every way, hence will assume her natural attitude. 
Act quickly but quietly ; don't get flustered yourself; converse naturally with her, to take her 
mind fn>m" the fact that she is being measured, otherwise she will inevitably and uncon- 
sciously "pose," which will result in a misfit, meaning trouble, alterations, loss of prestige, 
etc. ' 

Be very careful in measuring to place the tape close to the body, neither too tight nor 
too loose, and see to it that it is not crooked. The success of the garment depends greatly 
on the balance, which the measurement alone can ascertain. It is therefore imperative that 
the body of your customer be in its natural pose when the measure is taken. We must again 
impress' upon you the necessity of so arranging matters that you will keep her body in its 
proper pose. It is a very common occurence that a person whose natural attitude is some- 
what stooping will erect herself during the operation of measuring, which should be avoid- 
ed. Take special notice of the foregoing instruction. 

TAKING THE MEASURE. 

Diagram 4, N. 1 ; Diagram 4, No. 2. 

FIRST— Mark shoulder seam with two pins, one at 8, the other at 9. This is very im- 
portant, and great care should be taken not to get this particular seam too far front or back. 

SECOND Place tape high up under arm as line 1 shows, and mark with pins for 

shoulder height measure at 22 and 15 on front and 24-25 on back, directly under shoulder 
pins previously placed. 

BUST MEASURE — Move tape down to fullest part of bust (point 2) and take 
measure. 

WAIST MEASURE— Draw tape tight around waist and take measure. 

I IIP MEASURE — Move tape down four (4) inches below waist to point 4, and meas- 
ure fairly tight. Four inches lower is a second hip measure, point 5. 

NECK MEASURE — Measure around neck with ease, not too tight nor yet too loose. 

ACR< )SS CHEST — 21-20. From armscye to armscye across chest. 

NECK FRONT TO WAIST — 6-2-3. From lowest point of neck measure to fullest part 
of bust to waist front. 

SHOULDER HEIGHT FRONT — 8-22 and 9.15. Measure from pins on shoulder to 
pins placed on bust. 

SHOULDER HEIGHT BACK — 8-24 and 9-25. Measure from pins on shoulder to pins 
placed on back. 

LENGTH BACK TO WAIST — 6-1-3. From collarbone to center of back to waist. 

ACROSS BACK — 23-11. From armscye to armscye across back. 

UNDER ARM — Place the end of tape a little back of directly under the arm ; then take 
the measure to bottom of belt. Be very careful to get this measure long enough. 

OUTSIDE SLEEVE — 7-11-12-13. From center of back to armscye, elbow and wrist. 

SKIRT MEASURE. , 

Take waist measure same as for jacket, and for hip measure, 6 inches below waist. 
LENGTH FRONT— 3-16 from waistband to floor. 
LENGTH SIDE — 18-17 from waistband to floor. 
LENGTH BACK— 3-19 from waistband to floor. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



13 




Diagram 4 No. 1 



Diagram 4 No. 2 



14 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



JACKET LESSON I. 

Diagram 5 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8J4 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 934 — 7) 2 inches 

Across Chest 15' .. inches Shoulder Heights Back 8j4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist... .734 — 15' _• inches 

Length Front of Waist 7% — 17j4 inches Length of Shoulder 5-}.\ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A B. 

From A to C is 734 inches, neck height in back. 

From A to E is 153-4 inches, length of waist in back. 

E to F is 4 inches, the first hip. 

F to B is 4 inches, the second hip. 

Square over points C E F and B on line A B. 

From C to D is J/2 of bust measure plus 1 inch. In this case 20 inches. 

This 1 inch we allowed is lost in cutting out the pattern. 

D to Q is y 2 inch allowed for breathing. 

D to G is 34 °f bust measure, in this case 5 inches. 

G to H is Ys of bust measure plus 1*4 inches, in this case 4 inches. 

C to Y is 234 inches. 

This point changes 34 more or less according to larger or smaller sizes. 

C to I is 7 inches, 34 of back measure. 

Square point D and FI up and down. 

Square up points G I Y on line C D. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



lo 



A 

■3> 



Q 



<m^ 



D 



-# 



^ 



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-®= ^C 



-S»E 



^»F 



—4iB 



Diagram 5 



16 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



JACKET LESSON II. 



Diagram 6 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Mips 41 inches 

Across Chest i5>4 inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist. .. ■ 7}i—T-7 1 /2 inches 



Underarm % l / 2 

Across Back 14 

Shoulder Heights Front. . . .0^2 — 7^2 

Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8J4 

Neck Height and to Waist. .7% — 15^2 
Length of Shoulder 5% 



nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

C to P is 6 inches, the second shoulder height back. 

Y to O is 8}4 inches, the first shoulder height back. 

Square over A and P on line A B. 

Jn squaring P over point R is found crossing line I. 

R to S is ^2 inch. 

Draft neck A O and draw back shoulder O S, 5% inches. 

At front, H to 3 is 7 l /z inches, second shoulder height front. Square point 3. 

G to X is 9 l /z inches, first shoulder height front. Square point X over 1)X inches to point 31. 

X to 1 is 2 inches. 

Square over point 1 to 27. 

Draft neck curve from 31 to 27. 

Draw front shoulder from 31 to 3, 5^4 inches, the same as back shoulder O. S. 

Z to 2 is 7Y4 inches, l /- of chest measure. 

Draft armscye from S through H, 2 to 3. 

In drafting armscye be very careful not to go inside of line I. R. 

Also do not bring it below the bust line. 

It is very important to follow the draft of armscye very carefully and get the shape as near as 

possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large wnile 

a small armscye can easily be made larger. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



17 




Diagram 6 



18 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN . 

TIGHT BACK LOOSE FRONT. 

Diagram 7 

MEASURES. 

Bust '. 38 inches Underarm 8}4 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 



38 


inches 


?5 


inches 


41 


inches 


15V5 


inches 


15 


inches 



Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9 ! / 2 — 7 1 /- inches 

Across Chest lSy 2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8*4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist— 7% — I5y 2 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7>4 — 17>4 inches Length of Shoulder 5M inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

At waist line E to J' is V/ 2 inches in all cases. 

J to K is 1*4 inches. 

This measure varies l /$ inch according to larger or smaller size where the back is tight fitting 

with two gores. 
Waist measure 25 inches, J4 of same is 6^4 inches, which must be divided into l / 2 back and 

two equal gores. 
K to L is 1 inch. 
L to 7 is 7 inches. As we only need 5 inches in this case, the other 2 l /\ inches are taken out 

in two darts of lj4, inches each. The remaining 5 inches are to be divided equally into 

two gores of 2j/ 2 inches each. 
L to 4, 2y 2 inches; 4 to 5, l l /$ inches; 5 to 6, 2y 2 inches; 6 to 7, l l /& inches. 
On hip line measure from F to V 134 inches. 
Draw center back from A through J to V. 
Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure J /& inch to 15, no 

allowances to be made for point 10. 
rake the center of 4 and 5, square down where line crosses on hip, measure y 2 inch to 75 and 

Y% inch to 74. 
Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip , measure Ya 

inch to 13 and Y& inch to 14. 
28 to 30 is 8*4 inches length of underarm measure. 
Draw new waist line from L to 30. 
R to T is iy 2 inches. 

Draw guide line from K at waist line to T. 
Go out from guide line on bust line 1 inch to U. 
Shape back and side gores as shown. 

Measure hip from V to 10, 15 to 74, 7? to 14, 13 to 33, which is 20y inches, y 2 of hip measure. 
33 to 18 is \y 2 inches. 

This \y 2 inches is taken out in the front dart at waist line between 9 and 8. 
Measure back neck A O, which is 2}/ 2 inches. 

Place this 2y 2 inches at front neck on point 32 to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure. 
Draw center front line from 27 through Q to 18 to length of coat. 
27 to Q is 7% inches, the highest point of chest. 
27 to M is I7y 2 inches. Length waist in front. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

To place dart, measure from M at waist line to 9, 3% inches. 
Take out from 9 to 8 1*4 inches. This 1*4 inches we allowed from 33 to 18. 
On front bust line from O measure over oYa inches, and from this point down to W measure 

3*4 inches. 
Take the center 8, 9, draw a line up to W, down and shape dart as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



19 




11 12 



Diagram 7 



20 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT BACK LOOSE FRONT COMPLETE. 

Diagram 8 

MEASURES. 

I '.ust 38 inches Underarm 8^2 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9</ 2 — 7 l / 2 inches 

Across Chest \S l /> inches Shoulder Height Back 8j4 — ■ 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height to Waist 7% — 15}4 inches 

Shoulder 5% inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

How to make garment double breasted. 

Measure from front line O 18, 2 inches to 26, 71 and draw line. 

For buttons measure the same distance back from front line Q 18 and mark buttons as shown 

in diagram. 
To obtain collar and lapels measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23, 1 inch. 
Draw a straight line from the bottom of lapel 26 through 23 to 24. 
32 to 21 is 2Y\ inches, }4 mcn more than the neck measure O A. 
Square on line 26, 24. — V/ A inches, to 25 for standing band and 3 inches to 35. 
35 to 36 is l /z inch for spring. 
Shape back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. 
Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place separate paper under collar, trace out according to shape of collar. 
To trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will 

be reversed on oppositie side. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



21 




Diagram 8 



22 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN . 

TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH TWO DARTS. 

] )l VGRAM 9 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8*4 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9'/> — 7y 2 inches 

Across Chest 15j/> inches Shoulder Height Back 8% inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist... .734 — 15j4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7% — \7y 2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 - 834 inches 

Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 

MEASURES. 

Follow same instructions as given in First, Second and Third Lessons with exception t f front. 
At hip line measure from V to 10, 15 to 74, "5 to 14, 13 to 18, which is 20^ inches pins 1 inch. 

This 1 inch is taken out between the two front darts at hip line, ]A inch in each. 
Draw center front line from 17 through Q 18, slightly shaped to 71. 
27 to D is 7 x /\ inches, the highest point of chest. 
27 to M is 17^4 inches, length of waist in front. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 
Place the 634 inches , which is 34 of back measure, on point 30, and measure over 12j4 inches 

to point 63, which is l /> oi waist measure. 
63 to M is 3 inches. 

These 3 inches are divided equally into the two front darts at waist line, of 1 !/> inches each. 
To place darts, measure at waist line from M to 62, 2 inches. 

62 to 63 is \ l /2 inches. 

63 to 9 is 1 inch. 

9 to 8 is \y 2 inches. 

On front bust line from D measure over 3-)4 inches, and from this point down 3 inches to U 

From U measure over to W 2y 2 inches, and from this point up to the bust line 2 l / 2 inches, 

which gives us the height of darts. 

Take the center of 62 and 63 at waist line, draw a line up to X3 and measure 6 inches down 

from waist line to 57. 
Take the center of 8, 9 at waist line, draw a line up to W, and measure down 6 inches from 

waist line to 58. 
The first dart where line crosses on hip measure 34 inch to 59 and 34 mcn to 60. 
The second dart where line crosses on hip measure '4 inch to 16 and 34 inch to 17 and shape 

dart as diagram shows. 
To make garment double breasted measure from M at the waist line to 54, 1 inch. 
At neck 27 to 52 is 1 inch. 

Draw opposite line from 71 through 54, to 52, 52 to 51 is 4 inches. 
54 to 53 is 13--2 inches. 
71 to 55 is 23^2 inches. 
Shape front as diagram shows. 

To obtain lay down collar, measure from the deepest point of neck 31 to 23, 1 inch. 
Draw line from 27 through 23 to 24, 32 to 21 is 2^4 inches, 34 inch more than the back neck 

measure. A O. 
Square on line 27, 24, I34 inches to 25 for standing band and 3 inches to 35. 
35 to 36 is 34 inch for spring. 
Shape the back of collar from 25 through 24, 21 to 36, as shown in diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



23 




Diagram 9 



24 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT FITTING BACK LOOSE FRONT FRENCH SEAMS. 

Diagram 10 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hips 41 inches 

Across Chest I5y 2 inches 

Neck 15 inches 



Underarm 8J4 inches 

Across Back 14 inches 

Shoulder Heights, Front 9 l /> — 7 l / 2 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8)4 — 6 inches 

Neck Height and to Waist... .7)4 — 15>4 inches 
Shoulder 5J4 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS, 

Follow same instructions as given in the First, Second and Third Lessons, with the exception of 

French seams. 
Back shoulder O to T is 3 inches. 
T to S is 2J4 inches. 
At back bust line C to U is 3% inches. 
Shape the back and side gore as diagram shows. 

At front shoulder 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder O to T. 
22 to 20 is 2 inches. 

These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. 
20 to 19 is 2s/± inches, the same as back shoulder T to S. 
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. 
On front bust line D to W is 3% inches. 
Shape the front as diagram shows. 
To make garment double breasted measure from the front line 18, J. inches to 26, 71 and 

draw line. 
For buttons measure the same distance back from front line 18 and mark buttons as diagram 

shows. 
To obtain shawl collar and lapel, measure from the deepest point of neck 31 to 23, 1 inch. 
Draw a line from the botom of lapel at 26 through 23, 24. 
32 to 21 is 2?4 inches, %. inch more than back neck measure A O. 
Square over on line 24, 26, V/i inches to 25 standing band and over to 35. 
35 to 36 is y 2 inch for spring. 
Shape back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. 
Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place separate piece of paper under collar and traced out according to shape of collar. 
To trace out lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which 

will be reversed on opposite side. 
Cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together on point W at bust line and meet the two 

points on shoulder 22 and 20. 
At neck point 32 raise l /% inch and point 3 remains the same. 
Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to 40. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



25 



25 «l 24 




Diagram 10 



26 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN . 

TIGHT FITTED JACKET FRENCH SEAMS. 

Diagram h 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8 l /> inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9]/ 2 — 7 l / 2 inches 

Across Chest lS l / 2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8J4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist. ...7*4 — 15J4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7J4 — \7 l / 2 inches Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in the First, Second and Third Lessons with the exception of 

front and French seams. 
Back shoulder O to T is 3 inches. 
T to S, 2^4 inches. 
On bust line C to U is 3% inches. 
At hip measure from F to V, 1*4 inches. 
Take the center of L K square down, where line crosses on hip, measure V% inch to 15, *4 inch 

to 10. 
Take the center of 4, 5, square down where line crosses on hip, measure ]/ 2 inch to 75, jHs inch 

to 74. 
Take the center of 6, 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure J4 inch 

to 13 and }i inch to 14. 
Measure hip from V to 10, 15 to 74, 75 to 14, 13 to 18, which is 20£ inches l / 2 of hip measure 

plus 2 inches. These 2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip, between 16 and 17. 
28 to 30 is &y 2 inches underarm measure. 

Draw new waist line from L to 30, shape back as diagram shows. 
Measure back neck A O, which is 2 l / 2 inches, place these 2y 2 inches on front neck at point 32, 

measure to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure. 

27 to Q is 7*4 inches, the highest point of chest. 
27 to M is 17;H> inches, length waist in front. 

Draw front line from M through Q to 27 and down from M to 18 slightly shaped to 71. 

Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

Place the 6% inches, which is *4 of waist measure, in back on point 30, measure over \2 l / 2 

inches, which is l / 2 of waist measure plus y 2 inch, which gives us point 9. 
9 to M is 2y 2 inches. 
These 2y 2 inches more than the natural waist measure are taken out in front dart between 9 

and 8. 
At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder O to T. 
22 to 20 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. 
20 to 19 is 2^4 inches, the same as back shoulder T S. 
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. 
At front bust line Q to W is 3% inches. 
Shape the front as diagram shows. 

To make garment double breasted, measure from M at the waist line 1 inch to 54. 
At neck 27 to 52 is 1 inch. 

Draw opposite line from 71 through 54 Q to 52. 
52 to 51 is 4 inches. 
71 to 55 is 2y 2 inches. 
54 to 53 is \y 2 inches. 
Shape the front as diagram shows. 
Cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point W at bust line, and meet the two 

points on shoulder 22 and 20. 
At neck point 32 is raised 34 inch. 
Point 3 remains the same. 
Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to 40. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



27 




Diagram 11 



28 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



REGULAR COAT SLEEVE. 

Diagram 12 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches To Elbow 19^ inches 

Half of Back 7 inches Full Length .29y 2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B. A to M is l / 2 of back measure, 7 inches. A to L is \9 l / 2 inches to elbow. 

A to B is full length, 29^ inches. M to D is j^ of bust less 1 inch, Z J / 2 inches. 

Square over all given points. M to S is Y\ of bust, 9 inches. Square down S to H. This com- 
pletes box for sleeve. N is the center of M — S. Square N to O, 2]/ 2 inches. M to I 
is 1 inch. L to C is ]A inch. O to P is jA inch. T to R is 1 inch. R to U is J-» of 
bust plus y 2 inch, 5 inches. 

K is the center of B — H. Square down l /> inch to J. 

H to G is 1 inch. Draw line from G through J to E. J to V is 2> l / 2 inches. G to E is 6y 2 
inches. 

.Shape undersleeve from G — R — O — N — U to V. 

Top sleeve from G — R — P — O — I — C — E. This completes coat sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



29 



$) 




Diagram 12 



30 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP. 

Diagram 13 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

A regular sleeve is 1 inch from M to I, in this case is 3j4 inches. 

At elbow \ l / 2 inches C to C. 

At top, N to O is I/2 inches, in this case 3 inches. 

Shape as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



31 




Diagram 13 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE REGULAR SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER 

Diagram 14 
INSTRUCTIONS. 

Keep elbow in same place. The dotted line is the original sleeve. This sleeve is 2 inches short- 
er, I inch at top and bottom. 
At top, A to E is 1 inch. 
C to G is 1 inch. 

At bottom, D to H is 1 inch, B to F is 1 inch. 
At undersleeve, I to M is 1 inch, K to O is 1 inch. 
L to P is 1 inch, J to N is 1 inch. 
The heavy line is the correct length. 

To make sleeve longer, the same way, add 1 inch' on top and 1 inch at bottom. 
For regular sleeve follow same instructions as given in diagram 12, page 28. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



33 




Diagram 14 



34 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BISHOP SLEEVE. 

Diagram 15 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B. A to J is Ay 2 inches, % of bust measure. J to D is }i of bust measure. 9 
inches. D to B is % of bust measure, 9 inches. Square over ail given points. 

A to E is 16 inches, 2 inches less than )A of bust measure. Square down E to K. 

This completes box for sleeve. 

Take center of K — B, which gives us point T. Square down T to M 3 inches. D to O and P 
to G is Y± inch; X to P and J to C is I inch;U is l A the distance of A — E. 

Square up O to N i inch. A to F is 2 l A inches ; E to I is ^A inches. 

Shape sleeve as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



35 




Diagram \$ 



36 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SEMI-FITTING WITH UNDER GORE. 

Diagram 16 

MEASURES. 

Bust .' 38 inches Underarm 83^2 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9^4 — 7 l / 2 inches 

Across Chest \Sy 2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8j4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist-.. 7^4 — 15J/2 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7%. — \7 l / 2 inches Length of Shoulder •. 5 £4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons, with the exception of the 
back. 

At waist line E to J is l / 2 inch. 

At hip F to V }i inch. 

Draw center back line from A through J V to 79. This garment is cut with a center back seam. 

At back shoulder R to T is A l / 2 inches. 

At waist line from J to 7 is 10 inches. 

Measure from 7 to 6, 1 inch. 

Take the center of J 6, and from this point measure Y% of an inch to K and }i of an inch to L. 

Where line crosses on hip, measure J4 of an inch to 10, and y 2 of an inch to 15. 

Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down, and where line crosses on hip measure 

■34 to 13 and ^ to 14. 

28 to 30 is 8 l / 2 inches length of underarm. 

Draw new waist line 30 to L. 

Shape the back gores as diagram shows. 

To draft front, collar and lapel, follow instructions given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



37 




DlAGRAM 16 



38 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SEAMS AT SIDE AND SAILOR COLLAR. 

Diagram 1 7 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8*/> inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips - 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9^ — 7yi inches 

Across Chest 15^2 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8j4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 ^ inches Neck Height and to Waist....7*4 — 15}/S inches 

Length Front Waist 7j4 — 17>4 inches Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist E to J is l / 2 inch. 

Draw center back line from A to J through V to length of coat. 

At back shoulder, R to T is 4y 2 inches. 

At waist, J to 7 is 10 inches. 

From 7 to 6 is 1 inch. 

Take the center of 6, 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure -34 of 
inch to 13 and jMs of inch to 14. 

At waist line take the center from J to 6, and from this point measure % of an inch to K and % 
of an inch to L. Square down from this point where line crosses on hip, measure }4 
of an inch to 10 and J-4 ot an inch to 15. 

28 to 30 is 8^2 inches length of underarm. 

Draw new waist line from L to 30. 

For entire front follow same instructions as given in the semi-fitting coat, with the exception of 
shaping the seam to armhole. 

Shape seam to armhole instead of shoulder. 

Take out T / 2 inch at armhole. Shape as diagram shows. 

To draft front, sailor collar and lapel follow same instructions as given in the semi-fitting 

coat with shawl collar. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



39 




2L^L_^u¥ 



tr ■- # 



#12' 



Diagram 17 



40 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE SEMI-FITTING COAT. 

Diagram IS 



MEASURES. 



Bust .. 

Waist 
Hip .. 



.38 

.2? 
.41 



inches 
inches 
inches 



Across Chest 15>4 inches 

Neck IS inches 

Length Front of Waist 7% — \7 l / 2 inches 



Underarm 8y 2 inches 

Across Back 14 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9 l /> — ■ 7 l /i inches 

Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8J4 inches 

Neck Height and to Waist ...7^4 — 15^4 inches 
Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow »ame instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line E to J l /2 inch. 

Draw center back line from A through J V to length of coat. 

At back shoulder O to T is 3 inches. 

T to S IYa inches. 

On back bust line Y to U is 2 inches. 

At back waist line J to K is 3-}4 inches. 

K to L is ^ inch. 

L to 6 is 5 inches. 

6 to 7 is Y\ of an inch. 

Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure l /\ inch to 10 and 

y 2 inch to 15. 
Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure y\ 

of an inch to 13 and Y% inch to 14. 
28 to 30 is 8^ inches underarm measure. 
Draw new waist line L to 30. 
Shape the two back gores as diagram shows. 
For the front, lapel and collar follow the same instructions as given in the semi-fitting coat with 

shawl collar. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



41 




Diagram 18 



42 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN . 

SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR. 

Diagram 19 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8yi inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

1 lips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9 l / 2 — • 7y 2 inches 

Across Chest \5y 2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — Syi inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist. ...7% — 15^2 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 l /\ — \7y> inches Length of Shoulder....: 5^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line E to J is ) 2 inch. 

Draw center back line from A through J V to length of coat. 

The back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches. 

T to S is 2^4 inches. 

On back bust line Y to U is 2 inches. 

Measure at back waist line from J to K 2-)i inches. 

K to L, }i of an inch. 

L to 6 is 5 inches. 

6 to 7 is 1 inch. 

J, K and L 6 is 7^4 inches, \y 2 inches more than ]-\ of the natural waist measure. 

Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure % inch to 10, y 2 inch 

to 15. 
Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure ->4 

of an inch to 13 and jMs of an inch to 14. 
28 to 30 is 8y 2 inches underarm measure. 
Draw new waist line from L to 30. 
Shape the two back gores as diagram shows. 
Measure hip from V to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to 33, which is 20y 2 inches, y 2 of nip measure, 33 to 18 

is \y 2 inches. These \ l / 2 inches are taken out between the dart on hip line, 16 and 17. 
Measure back neck, A O, which is 2y 2 inches. Place these 2y 2 inches on point 32 on front neck, 

and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure. 
Draw front line from O through 18 to 45. 
27 to Q is 7y inches, the highest point of chest. 
27 to M is 17 y 2 inches, length front of waist. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder, O T. 
From Q on front bust line measure 3H inches to W. 
At waist line, M to 9 is 3 inches. 
9 to 8 is iy 2 inches. 

At hip, 18 to 17 is 4 inches, and 17 to 16 is \y 2 inches. 

22 to 20 at shoulder is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on 3, which gives us point 19. 
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. 
Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. 
To make garment double breasted measure from front line O 18, 2 inches to 26, 71 and draw 

line. 
For buttons measure the same distance back from front line Q 18 and mark buttons as diagram 

shows. 
To obtain collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck. 

31 to 23 is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 

32 to 21 is 2J4 inches, l /i inch more than the back neck measure, A O. 

Square over on line 24, 26 — 1J4 inches, to 25 for standing band, and over to 35. Any desired 

width of collar. 
35 to 36 is y 2 inch allowed for spring. 
Shape back of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. 
Shape the collar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape. 
To trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will 

be reversed on the opposite side. 
How to cut out the two front gores. 

Lay pattern together at point W at bust line and meet the points on shoulder 22 and 20. 
At point 32 on neck raise T 4 inch. 
Point 3 remains the same. 
Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to 40. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



43 



£5 

7~r « 




Diagram 19 



44 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

SEVEN EIGHTH FITTING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE 

Diagram 20 

MEASURES. 

Bust 52 inches Underarm 8 inches 

Waist 39 inches Across Back 17 inches 

Hip 52 inches Shoulder Height Front il - 9 inches 

Across Chest 18 inches Shoulder Height Back 9)4- 7 inches 

Neck IS inches Ntck Height to Waist 8 4-17 inches 

Length Front of Waist 8% — 17 inches Length of Shoulder 6'4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A, B. A to C is 8,Vj inches. A to li VY? inches, length waist in bacU. 

E to F is 4 inches the first hip. F to B is 4 inches the second hip. 

Square over points C, E, F and B on line A, B. 

C K> D is Yz of bust measure plus 1 inch in thD case 27 inches. This 1 inch we allowed is io.-.t in cut- 
ting out the pattern. 

D to Q is Yi inch allowed for breathing. 

D to G is % of bust measure, in this case 6^4 inches. 

G to H is Y& of bust measure plus \Yz inches, in this case 4Js inches. 

C to Y in a regular 36 size is 2Y\ inches; we allow ^s more for each size in this case, which is 3Y\ inches. 

C to I is 8J/2 inches,. J4 of back measure. 

Square points D and H up and down and square up points G, I, Y on line C, D. 

At back, C to P is 7 inches, second shoulder height back. 

V to O is 9Y? inches, first shoulder height back. 

Square over A and P on line A, B. 

In squaring over P point R is found crossing line F 

R -to S is 1 inch, in this case according to the length of the shoulder. 

Draft back neck, A O, and draw back shoulder, O to S. 

At front, H to 3 is 9 inches, second shoulder height front. 

G to X is 11 inches, the first shoulder height front. 

X to 32 in a regular 36 size is IY2 inches. We allowed Ys more for each size, in this case it is 2Y inches. 

X to I in a regular 36 size is 2 inches. We allowed 1/16 of an inch more for each size, in this case it 
is 2Vi inches. 

Square point 1 to 27 and draw a line. 

Draft front neck curve from 32 to 27 and draw front shoulder from 32 to 27, £>% inches, the same as 
back shoulder, O S. 

Z to 2 is 9Yi inches, Y2 of chest measure. Draw arm scye from S through H, 2 to 7. 

At back shoulder O to T is 3% inches. T to 29 is Yz inch taken out. This Y2 inch we add on point S, 

29 to S is 3 inches. We take out this Yi i ncn between T and 29 when the figure is round across 
the back. On back bust line, Y to U is 2 inches. 

At waist line E to J is ^ inch. J to 4 is 14^4 inches; in this case we only need 11J4 inches, which is 
>4 of the waist measure plus \Yi inches. The other 2% inches are taken out between the darts 

30 and 38, L, and K. 

J to K is 4 inches. K to L is 1 inch. L to 38 is 7' 4 inches. 38 to 30 is V/a inches. 

30 to 37 is \Yz inches. In this case, in order to place the seam direct under the arm so the two ->ide 

gores will be equal. 
J, K and L 38 is \\Y\ inches, which is \Y> inches more than Y\ of the natural waist measure which we 

allow in all Js fitting coats. 
Take the center of L, K; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, J4 inch to IS and Y\ of an 

inch to 10. 
Take the center of 6 and 7; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, \Ya inches to 13 and Y* 

inch to 14. 
From the center line of L, K at bottom measure 6 inches to 44 and 4 inches to 43. 
From center line of 6 and 7 at bottom measure 4 inches to 80 and 6J4 inches to 81, 28 to 30 is 8 inches 

length of underarm. 
Draw a new waist line from L to 30 and shape the two back gores as diagram shows. 
Measure hip from V to 10; IS to 14; 13 to 33, which is 26 inches, Yz of hip measure. 33 to 18 is 3 

inches. These 3 inches less J4 inch are taken out between the front dart at hip line 16, 17. 
This '/< inch less we leave in on all stout figures. 
Draw front line from Q through 18 to 45. 

At neck, from 27 to Q is 8Y2 inches, the highest point of chest. 
27 to M is 16 inches, length waist in front. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3*4 inches, the same as back shoulder, O, T. 
22 to 20 is 3 inches taken out in this case when the figure has a high chest. 
These 3 inches we allow on point 27 which gives us point 40. 
Shape arm scye from S through 28 to 40. At bust line D to W is 4 inches. 
At waist line M to is 3^4 inches. 9 to 8 is 2 inches. 
At hip line 18 to 17 is aYa inches. 17 to 16 is 2Y2 inches. 
Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. 
I *' 1 1 r double-breasted, collar and lapel, also how to lay pattern together and cut out, follow the same 

instruction^, given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



45 




Diagram 20 



46 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HIPLESS COAT 

Diagram 21 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm o/ 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9 l / 2 — ■ 7 l / 2 inches 

Across Chest 15'. - inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8}4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist..../ J4 — 15}^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 l / A — \7y 2 inches Length of Shoulder 5$4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions for box, as semi-fitting coat. Diagram 19. Our natural waist line is 
E to 52. Go up IVi inches, which is point W. W to J is '/ 2 inch; | to K is 3'/ 4 inches; 
K to L is ->4 inch ; L to 10 is 5 l / 2 inches; 10 to 12 is 1 inch; 30 is half of L to K. 
Square down to 14. 11 is half of 10 to 12; square up to 9 and down to 18. 

On line 30 — 14 come out on hip J4 to 41. O to V; on line 9 — 18 come out on hip ■}$ to 17; 
>% to 13 and shape gores as shown in diagram. 

Length front of waist from U to 4 is 15 inches; draw waist line 4 to 12 and take out between 
3 and 2, 1 inch ; complete coat according to diagram. For double breasted collar, and 
lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



47 




24 23 



Diagram 21 



48 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE STRAIGHT LINE COAT. 

Diagram 22 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm %y 2 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 



38 


inches 


?s 


inches 


41 


inches 



Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights, Front 9 l / 2 — 7y 2 inches 

Across Chest \S l / 2 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8% — 6 inches 

Neck IS inches Neck Height and to Waist. .7)4— 15'A inches 

Length Front Waist 7y — 17/4 inches Shoulder 5->4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

From V at waist line measure up l l / 2 inches to E and square over. 

From E to J measure y inch. 

J to K is 5 inches. 

K to L is y 2 inch. 

L to 6 is 7>Y\ inches. 

fi to 7 is )A inch. 

Take the center of L K and square down, and where line crosses on hip measure yi, inch to 

10, and y 2 inch to 15. 
Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 2S and down where line crosses on hip. 
Measure y of inch to 13, }£ of inch to 14. 
28 to 30 is 7 inches underarm measure. 
Shape the two back gores as diagram shows. 
Follow same instructions for the front as given in semi-fitting coat, with the exception of the 

length in front, which is 16 inches. 
This coat is cut without a lap. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



49 




Diagram 22 



50 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



MOPsTE CARLO BOX COAT. 

Diagram 2} 

MEASURES. 

Bust 3S inches Underarm - 8y 2 inches 

Waist 2? inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 10J4 — 8j4 inches 

Across Chest 15>4 inches Shoulder Height Back 8>4 — 6j4 inches 

Neck IS inches Neck Height and to Waist- 7 1 _> — \5'/2 inches 

Length of Shoulder 5-)4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

It is necessary after the regular shoulder heights are taken to allow an extra -;4 inch on front 
shoulder, y& inch on back shoulder. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

Length of coat, 52 inches. 

At waist line from 19 to L is •/> inch. Draw back line from A through L to B. 

On bust line from 5 to 22 is 2 inches. 

Square point 22. which locates point 4. 

For back part on waist line from 4 to 6 is 1 inch. 

Draw straight line from 22 through 6 to 13. This completes back. 

At front on hip line from 18 to M is 1 inch. Draw front line from 11 through O — M to full 
length. 

For front part on hip from 4 to 7 is 1 inch. 

Draw straight line from 22 through 7 to 10. Connect 10 with 16. 

Allow l 1 /? inches from box line, as shown at bottom. 

To place dart at shoulder, measure from O on bust line. 3.> 4 inches over, from this point down 
l l /> inches to W. 

At shoulder from 9 to 8 is 2 inches ; 8 to 14 is 3 inches taken out. These 3 inches add on point 
12, which gives us point 3. Reshape armscye from 5 to 3. 

In cutting out the dart place dart together at shoulder, points 8 — 14. 

Square over shoulder, raise shoulder y 2 inch to point 9 — 8 — 14 to 3. 

This coat is cut without a collar or lap. 

+ ..... 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



51 




Diagram 2\ 



52 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN . 

TWO-PIECE COAT. 

Diagram 24 



MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8y 2 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9 l / 2 — 7y 2 inches 

Across Chest 15^ inches Shoulder Heights Back 8J4 — 6 inches 

Neck 14 inches Neck Height and to Waist....7}4 — 15^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7*4 — I7y> inches Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
Follow same instructions for box, only as semi-fitting coat. 

BACK. 

1. E to J at waist line is 1 inch, J to K 5 inches and K to L 1 inch; 23 is one-half of K and L; 

square down to 14 full length of garment; from F to 43 is one-half inch at hip line; 14 
to 15 is \y 2 inches; 14 to 16 is 5 inches; B to 22 is % inch. 

2. Draft back from 22 through 43 — J to A and 15 through W — K to T; T is about half the 

distance on armscye S — H; now draft part of your front from 16 through V; V is % 
inch from W L to T. 

FRONT. 

1. Measure underarm &/> inches from H to 1 and length front waist \7 l / 2 inches from U to 
8 and draw from 8 to L; take out on line H between 1 and 2, % inch and make dart to 
3 about 4 inches below waist line ; front dart place directly under bust, taking out about 
1 inch from 5 and 6, making point 4 about 3 l / 2 inches below bust line and point 7 about 
7 inches below waist line. 



2 



10 to 9 is \y 2 inches; D to Q is y 2 inch; now draw front line of jacket from 9 through Q 
to U and down to 12; place button stand, line 11, 2^4 inches back from tront line 12 
and double breasted front line 13 — 20, 3 inches forward and add from 20 to 19 and 18 
to 17 1 inch for turning in. 

COLLAR. 

Bring your shawl collar down to about 2 inches above waist line front ; draw a straight line 
up from 20, going in at X about 1 inch, and up to 34 from X, 2^4 inches, which is neck 
length back O — A; square points 34 to 35, 1% inches and to 32, 3 inches; add for spring 
of collar back, from 32 to 33, •% inch. 

Draft under collar from 35 through 37 to 38 ; draft shawl effect from 20 to 33 as shown ; to 
get spring of collar draw a line 30 — 36 and make 27 and 31, \y 2 inches from 30 and draft 
curve to 36; break line 34 — 20 under and trace shawl 20 — 38 — 37 to get front shawl 
20—39—37. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



53 




17 IS 



Diagram 24 



54 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

LOOSE BOX COAT. 

Diagram 25 



liust 



..■>> 



MEASURES. 

inches Underarm % l /> inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip . 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 10 — 8 inches 

Across Chest 15j^ inches Shoulder Height Hack 8 l /> — 6;4 inches 

Meek 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist— .7% — l5'/ 2 inches 

Length Front Waist 7 1 /\ — 17)4 inches Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
It is necessary after the regular shoulder heights are taken to allow an extra -m inch on front 

shoulder ; Y% inch on back shoulder. 
Draw a line A to 15, which is 52 inches. From A to C is 7'/ 2 inches, neck height in hack. 
A to 19 is 15' _> inches, length of waist in back. 

19 to L is 4 inches, the first hip; L to F is 4 inches, second hip. 
Square over on points C 19, L F and 15 on line A 15. 

From C to D is l / 2 °f DUSt measure plus \yi inches, in this case 20 l / 2 inches. 

D to O is y 2 inch allowed for breathing. D to G is j4 of bust, in this case 5'/$ inches. 

D to 5~is % of bust plus \ x / 2 inches, in this case 4 1-16 inches. 

C to 20 is 2 x /a inches. 

This change of ]/% inch more or less is according to larger or smaller sizes. 

C to 1 is 7 inches. l / 2 of back measure. 

Square points D and 5 up and down on line C D. 

Square up points G I and 20 on line C D. 

C to P is 6'4 inches, the second shoulder height back. 

20 to O is 8y 2 inches, the first shoulder height back. 

Square over A and P on line A 15. In squaring over P point R is found crossing line I. 

R to S is / 2 inch. 

Draft neck A O and draw back shoulder from O to S, which is .1^4 inches. 

At front, from 5 to 39 is 8}4 inches, second shoulder height front. 

Square point 39. G to X is 10J4 inches, the first shoulder height front. 

Square X to 29, 3 inches for this style coat only. 

Draw shoulder from 29 to 4. which is 5-54 inches. 

Square down X to 1.2 inches. Square over point 1 to 27. 

Draw neck curve from 29 through 27 to 24. From Z to 2 is 7V\ inches. }. _• of chest measure. 

Draw armscye from S — 28 — 5 — 2 to 4. 
Draw front line from 24 through M to 40. 

This completes the box. At back waist line measure from 19 to 17. '_> inch. 
Draw straight line from A through 17, K, 16 to B full length. 
At the back shoulder from S measure 4 l / 2 inches to 28. 
At waist line in back measure from 17 to 8, 6 l / 2 inches. 
At second hip measure from 16 to 18, 7 inches. 
Draw straight line from 7 down through 18 to 13 and up from 7 slightly shaped through 8 to 

28. This completes the back part. 
For front part at waist line measure from 8 to 9, 2 inches. 
Draw a straight line down from 9 to 10 and up from 9 to 28. 
To place dart in coat at shoulder measure from on the bust line 3-J4 inches over, and from 

this point down measure 1 inch to \\ . 
At top shoulder from 32 to 33 is 2 l / 2 inches, from 33 to 14 is 3 inches taken out. These 3 inches 

are added on the remaining shoulder from_14 to 3. 
To place the dart under the arm, measure from 5 to 6, 1 inch, and 6 to 41, 10 inches. 
Take the center of 6 and 41 and shape out }/?, inch each side as shown in diagram. 
To make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow diagram 19, page 42. 
In order to find out how much spring the collar requires, lay the back part of coat shoulder to 

shoulder on the front part, which is shown in diagram indicated by ditto marks. 
Square over from the back line of coat A C. From point C to 36 is 6 T 4 inches plus ' _■ inch. 

which is the amount required for spring. 
Place the spring in the collar by drawing a line through the center of collar at the top of shoulder 

from point 30 to 12. 
Allow from 12 to 22. 3"j inches, and from 12 to 11. 3"j inches, which gives us the amount of 

spring required. 
Trace out the front part of collar from 30 to 22 to 37 to 30. 
Trace the back part of collar from 30 to 11. 36. 21. 34 to 30. which gives us the two parts of 

collar, as shown in the lower diagram of coat. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



55 




Diagram 2 5 



56 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT. 

Diagram 26 

MEASURES. 

Bust - 38 inches Underarm 8>< inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14- inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9]/ 2 — 7y 2 inches 

Across Chest \S]/i inches Shoulder Heights Back 8j4 — 6 inches 

Neck - 1-5 inches Length Back to Waist 7]/\ — \5 l /i inches 

Length From of Waist 7yi — \7y 2 inches Shoulder 5% inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draft the same as tight fitting jacket to first hip, except back, which is straight down to 

full length of garment, 58 inches, to point 49. The back of this garment is always open 
and has a plait as shown. 

2. Cut jacket through between waist and hip as shown 15 — 13, or any other shape desired. 

3. Skirt: Draw first and second hip lines, a continuation of box as shown. 35 to 41 is hip 

measure less back, distance 54— V. 36 to 41 is same measure as 15 — 54. ' From 36 to 
35 is waist curve same as 15 to 13. At fullest part of hip take out a dart in V shape 2 
inches 31 — 32, and make same about V/ 2 inches deep, which seam is covered with a 
pocket, as diagram shows. 

4. From 35 to 47 is a straight line coming slightly out at bottom. The sweep at bottom is 

2J4 times bust measure, making same 4234 inches. Measure 42% inches from 49 to 46; 
47 to 50, whi.L is the point given by meistire. Connect 36 witii 50 and add plait as 
shown 36 — 34 and 50—48. 36 to 50 is the length 15 to 46, and after obtaining this point 
shape sweep from 50 to 47, as diagram shows. 

5. Collar: Turn down collar. The rules are same as notch collars, with the exception of shape, 

which follows as diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



57 




Diagram 26 



58 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE COAT RAGLAN SLEEVE 

Diagram 27 



MEASURES. 



Underarm 8)4 inches 

Across Back 14 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 10- 8 inches 

Shoulder Height Back 8'<j— 6)4 inches 

Neck Height and to Waist. ...7/4 — 15)4 inches 
Length ot Shoulder 5^4 inches 



For raglan, the back part. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hips 41 inches 

Across Chest 1534 inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7)4 — 17)4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
For coat follow same instructions as given in the loose coat. 
Draw a line from O to the side of armhole. 
Place the square on that line, and let the right angle rest on S, which produces point 22. 

21 is 1 inch. 
Shape the top of shoulder from O, 21 to T. The forepart, H to 7, is 1 inch. 7 to 5 is j 
Draw line from 5 to 18, place the square to that line and let the right angle rest on U, 

produces point 24. 
24 to 23 is 1)4 inches. 18 to 8 is }i inch. Shape the shoulder from 8, 23 to 5. 
From I to T is 2^4 inches, same distance as the back sleeve, D to I. 
Place a notch at T and a notch at 5. Measure the distance on the straight line from T 

which is 8 inches. 
Measure the distance from 8 to 5 on the straight line, which is 10)4 inches. ' 
Measure the distance from 18 to 3, in this case 5*)4 inches, the length of shoulder. 
This completes the raglan. 

PLAIN SLEEVE AND RAGLAN 

■ Diagram 28 
MEASURES. 



22 to 

& inch, 
which 



to O, 



Bust 38 inches 

Half of Back 7 inches 



Length to Elbow 19)4 inches 

Length to Wrist 29)4 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



Draw a line A B. A to M is 7 inches, 



72 



of back measure. 



A to L is 19)4 inches, length to elbow. 8 to B is 29)4 inches, the length to wrist. 

Square over points M, L and B. M to S is 9)4 inches, )4 of bust measure. 

Square S down, , which gives us point H. 

M to D is l /& of bust measure less 1 inch, in this case 4^4 inches. 

Square over D to point 0. X is one-half the distance between S ami M. 

M to 1 is 1 inch. Square over point I to C. 

Q to P is )4 inch for top sleeve. T to R is 1 inch. 

R to U is y% of bust measure plus )4 inch, in this case 5'4 inches. 

H to G is 1 inch. K is the center of H and B. 

K to J is )4 inch. Draw line from G through J over. 

For undersleeve P to J is 3 l /2 inches, and G to E is 6 inches. 

At top of sleeve X to O is 2)4 inches. Shape top of sleeve from I, O, P, R, G, E, L lo I. 

Shape the undersleeve from Q, R, E, G, V, U, C to (J. This completes the plain coat sleeve. 

For raglan sleeve Y to W is the same distance as the top shoulder of coat from 5 to 18 — 10)4 
inches. 



I to A is i/% inch less than the distance from T to O at the back part of raglan. This 

is eased over the shoulder in back. 
Sweep at point W backward, pivoting at point Y. 
Sweep from point A forward, pivoting at point I. 

to 8 is 5^4 inches, length of shoulder. Sweep from point 8 backward and forward, : 

at point O. 
This marks two cross lines, one through X and F. X to 9 is )4 inch. F to 10 is 

This is the )4 inch taken off from 18 to 8 at top shoulder front. 
Shape the top of sleeve from O to 10 and O to 9. 
Draw a straight line from Y to X and from 1 to F. 

1 to 2 i« 1 inch, and shape the sleeve from Y through 2 to X. 

4 to 3 is Y\ inch, and shape the sleeve from I through 3 to F. 

From 6 to 7 is 1 inch, from 5 to 6 is -^ inch. 

Dotted line shows where the sleeve is cut through with a seam on top, as shown in di 



■/n men 

)ivoting 

4 inch. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



59 





Diagram 2 7 



Diagram 28 



60 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO PLACE DART IN FRONT OF RAGLAN 

Diagram 29 



It is necessary in all loose coats to place a dart from the shoulder to the bust line, in order to 
give the garment proper fit over the bust. In this case cut out the entire front of raglan, 
lay another piece of paper under for a new front. Measure over from the center front 
line at point 3 on the bust line, 3^4 inches to 4. 

4 to 5 is \y 2 inches below the bust line. 

From point 5 square a line down to the bottom of the coat, as the dotted line shows. Split this 
line open up to 5. 

To place dart, at shoulder measure from the top of neck over to 1, 2 inches. Connect 1 with 
5, and cut through on this dotted line. Pivot on point 5, open the shoulder from 1 to 2, 
2 inches for dart which swings the bottom of coat from 8 to 7 and 9 to 10. Mark out 
the entire coat from A to neck, 1,2, to 6. 

Pivot at point 6, swing point 10 back to 9 and 7 to 8, which gives us the same fullness before 
placing the dart at shoulder. 

Reshape the bottom, which gives us a drop at the front part of coat, as the diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



61 




Diagram 29 



62 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A BLOCK PATTERN. LOOSE COAT. 

Diagram 30 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line from 32 to 2. 2 is the deepest point from armscye. 

41 to 39 is 1 inch. 

Shape from 2 through 39 to 32. 

Hack part. Draw line from O to T. 

T is the deepest part of armscye in back. 

38 is about the center of O. T. 

Square over 38 to 37 — 1 inch. 

Shape as shown. 

For double breasted collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



63 




Diagram 30 



64 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE A COAT WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK 

PATTERN. 

Diagram 3! 



Lay pattern together as diagram shows. 

To place a seam under the arm, measure down from the front neck, 3 to 5, 8 inches. 
Square 5 to 6, 11 inches. 

At bottom, from 2 to 8 is 16^ inches, and draw line from 6 to 7 to 8. 

This may be cut in a one piece coat or with a seam as desired. 

At armhole, from 6 to 7 is 4 inches. 

It may be cut higher or lower if desired. 

Shape armhole as shown. For double breasted collar and lapel follow same instructions as 
given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



65 




Diagram 31 



66 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DEEP ARMHOLE. 

Diagram 32 

Draw line A to B ; A to 7 is % of bust measure, 4j4 inches ; 7 to B is 18^ inches, full length 
sleeve; 7 to 9 is 3% inches, 1 inch less on each inch we go down distance from 6 to 7 at 
underarm of coat; 9 to 2 is \ l / 2 inches; 8 to 1 is ly£ inches. 

Draw a straight line from A to 11, from 11 to C, from A to 5, and from C to 4 is 5 inches. 

Shape sleeve as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



67 



8 



D& 




Diagram 32 



■# 



»B 



68 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



COLLARLESS SEMI-FITTING KIMONO COAT. 



Diagram 33 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hip 41 inches 

Across Chest I5y 2 inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7J4 — \7 l / 2 inches 



Underarm %y 2 inches 

Across Back 14 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9y 2 — 7 l / 2 inches 

Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8*4 inches 

Neck Height and to Waist.... 7j4 — -15 J^ inches 

Length of Shoulder 534 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow diagram 19, page 42 for a semi-fitting coat. 

This coat is cut with an underarm gore and body. 

From 28 to 62 is 1 inch. 

62 to 50 and 54 is 1% inches. 

Square up at 62 17*4 inches to 67, length of underarm gore. 

Square over from 67 to 68 and 66, 1 inch. 

Connect 68, 50, 66 and 54. 

Connect 50 with 64 and 54 with 64. and this completes the undregore of body. 

Cutting a collarless coat you always allow an extension from the natural neck line. In this case 

we allow \y 2 inches raise for the back and front of neck. 
Back neck, A to 53, O to 52. 
Neck point, 32 to 56. 

Raise 34 inch of the back shoulder from R to 51, for side back gore. 
Draw line from 50 through H to 61, 6 inches. 
62 to 63 is 3yi inches. 

From 60 draw a line through 63 to 60, which is \7y 2 inches, length of undergore sleeve. 
Square on line 60 — 50 to 58, 6 inches. 
60 to 59 is V/2 inches. 
Now shape sleeve 52 through T, 51, 61, 58, 59 through 63 to the side gore from 50 through 6 — 

14 to the length of coat over to 44 up through 15 L and T. 
This completes the side gores as diagram shows. 

THE FRONT SIDE GORE AND SLEEVE. 

Draw a line from 54 through 1 to 65, 6y 2 inches. 

Draw a line from 54 through 63 to 98. 

Square over on 98 to 47 — 4 inches. 

47 to 48 is V/ 2 inches. 

This \y 2 inches we lost between 22 and 20 on front shoulder. 

From 98 to 46 is \y 2 inches. 

Draw line from 46 to 54. 

Reshape sleeve from 46 slightly curve through 63 to 54. 

Shape sleeve and body from 20 through 3 — 40 — 65 down to 48 over to 46 front side of body, 

from 54 — 30 — 13 the length of coat over to 12 up through 16 — 8 — W and 20. 
This completes the sleeve and front side gore. 
To make garment double breasted. 

Go out from the front line 2J4 inches and the same distance back for buttons. 
At neck, 55 — 27, take out 1 inch and shape as diagram shows. 
This completes the diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



69 



68 67 88 




Diagram }) 



70 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SHAWL COLLAR CUT WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER. 
SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN. 

Diagram 34 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

At neck, from 16 to 23 is 1 inch. Draw line, from 26 through 23 to 13. From 13 to 12 is 1)4 
inches. Shape collar from 12 through break line to 7. 

At front shoulder, from 5 to 3 is )4 inch allowed for spring. Draw line from 12 — 13 — 20 — 3 
to 4. 

Trace out front part of collar 4 — 3 — 13 — 12 — 7 to 4. 

To trace out lapel, turn paper under on line 26 — 13, and give the shape of lapel on opposite side. 

Between 14 — 15 take out ^4 inch. Shape dart down 5 inches to 9. 

This Y\ inch we lose add on lapel at 19 to 17. This completes lapel and front part of collar. 

For back part of collar, 13 to 24 is 2)4 inches, the neck measure of back coat. Square over on 
break line. 26 — 24, any desired length for collar, in case 15 inches to 11, as shown in 
dotted line. Place the neck curve, 20 — 22, as shown in dotted line. 

For stand band of collar, from 24 to 25 is 1)4 inches. 

At back shoulder, from 2 to 1 is )4 inch raise for spring. 10 to 11 is -yi\ inch raise for spring. 

Shape collar on back shoulder, 12 to 8, making same length as front shoulder, 12 to 4. 

Shape back collar from 25—24—22—10—11—8—20—13—12, as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 




Diagram 34 



72 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SET ON COLLAR AND LAPEL. SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN. 

Diagram 35 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line from 26 to 16. 16 to 23 is 1 inch; 23 to 20 is 1% inches. Draw line from 23 to 26. 
Break line. Draw line 20 to 26. 

At front shoulder 7 to 8 is l /± inch allowed for spring. 

Draw line from 20 — 23 — 7 to 4. 4 to 5 is 3 inches taken out for close-fitting collar over arm. 
Shape front collar from 26 to 5 — 7 — 23 — 20 down to 26. 

For back part of collar 23 to 24 is 2 l / 2 inches, neck measure of back. Square on break line 24 
— 26 over to 3, as dotted line shows, any desired length, in this case 21 inches. 

Place the neck curve of the back part of coat 21 — 17, as shown in dotted line. For stand band, 
from 24 to 25 is 1^ inches. At back shoulder, from 10 to 9 is J4 inch allowed for spring. 
Draw line on back shoulder from 17 to 11, making same length as front shoulder, 17 to 4. 
11 to 12 is 3 inches taken out. 3 to 1 is % inch spring. 

Shape back collar from 25 — 24 — 21 — 2 — 12 — 9 — 17 — 23 — 20, as shown. 

For front part of coat, cut away on line 26 — 16 and set on lapel on same line of coat, 26 to 20. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



7S 




Diagram 35 



74 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TWO PIECE KIMONO COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN. 

Diagram 36 
INSTRUCTIONS. 

To place the seam of coat under the arm, take off the front 1 to 2, 1 inch. 

10 to 11 is 2 inches. Draw straight line from 1 to 11. The distance we take off the front 
from 1 — 2 and 1 1 — 10 add on the underarm of back coat, D — E — N — M. 

At front measure from 3 to 4, 20 inches, square over to 9, 26^4 inches, square up on line -I — 9 
to 7 7j/2 inches square over 7 to 8, 2'A inches. f> to 5 is 2yi inches. 

Draw line from 11 — 6 — 9 — 8 — 16 — 15 — 14. This completes the front. 

[JACK PART. 

From X to P is 19 inches. Square over to J 25 [ /4 inches. Square up J to H 8 inches. Square 
over H to I 1 Y\ inches. K to L is 1 ^4 inches. C to B is Y\ inch raise. 

Draw line from M — L — J — I — B — A. This completes the back part. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



75 




Diagram 36 



76 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE FRONT JACKET 3-8 INCH SEAM ALLOWED. 

Diagram 37 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hip 41 inches 

Across Chest 15^4 inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 — 17 inches 



Underarm 8yi inches 

Across Back 14 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9y> — 7 l /> inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8J4 — 6 inches 

Neck Height of Waist 7% — \S l / 2 inches 

Length of Shoulder 5% inches 



get neck line 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw~linTA— B.~~ 
C — D is bust line; C to A is 7% inches, length in back; C to P is 6 inches, second shouldei 

height back ; E is waist line, and 16 inches from A. 
From E to F and F to B are 4 inches apart, which are first and second hip points. Square 
points A, P, C, E, F, on line A — B. 

2. C to D is 22 inches, or y> of bust measure plus 3 inches, which is allowed for seams. D 

to G is 5 inches, *4 of y 2 bust measure, 20 inches, and square up. G to H is 4 inches, J/& 
of y 2 bust measure plus iy inches and square up and down. C to I is 7}^ inches 
across back, and square up. C to Y is 2y 2 inches, and square up. Y to O is 8^ inches, 
first shoulder height back. R to S is 1 inch. H to 3 is 7}i inches, and intersect point 
with line. G to X is 9% inches ; X to 1 is 2y inches ; square line 1 to 
front. Z to 2 is 7% inches (chest measure plus seam.) 
Draft neck curve back A O and shoulder back O S. Shoulder front, line X to line 3 is the 
same length as back shoulder, O — S. Draft armscye, starting from S through H — 2 
to line 3. 

3. E to J is \ l / 2 inches, and connect J with A for back line. J to K is 1% inches; K to L is 

1 inch ; L to 4 is 3*4 inches ; 4 to 5 is 1 inch ; 5 to 6 is 3% inches ; and 6 to 7 is 1% inches. 
The proportions for gores as just given are the same as < escribed in diagram 8, page 8, 

with the exception that y$ of an inch is allowed for seams. 
Fine center of K — L, 4 — 5, 6 — 7, and square down. 

4. F to V is l l /& inches. 10 and 15 are *4 inch from center line; 11 and 12 are Ys inch from 

center line ; 14 is jHs inch and 13 is y 2 inch from center line. 
Draft gores and back through just given points as diagram shows. Measure hip the same as 
described in previous lessons, allowing 3 inches more for seams. The front collar and 
lapel, including the dart, are the same as described in diagram 8. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



77 




i )F 



Diagram37 



78 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



NINETEEN-GORE CORSET JACKET. 

Diagram 38 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8J4 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 1034— 834 

Across Chest 15j4 inches Shoulder Height Back 83/2 — 634 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist. ...7%. — 15>^ 

Length Front of Waist 734 — 17/-2 inches Length of Shoulder 5% 

INSTRUCTIONS. 



nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 



1. The box, shoulder heights, collar and front are exactly the same as previous jacket lessons, 

with the exception of divisions of waist and hip. 

2. Waist : E to J is yi inch and is straight up and down to A — 37 without seams in back. 

T to K is §4 inch; K to L is l /> inch; L to 41 is 134 inches; 41 to M is y 2 inch; M to 42 
"is 134 inches; 42 to 22 is J4 inch; 22 to T is I34 inches; T to 30 is U inch; 30 to 40 
is 1J4 inches; 4 to 5 is 134 inches; 5 to 6 is 134 inches; 6 to 7 is 1 inch; 7 to 8 is 1}4 
inches ; 8 to 9 is Y\ inch ; 9 to 34 is 134 inches ; 34 to 33 is -34 inch ; 33 to W is 134 inches ; 
W to U is Ys, inch. Increase and decrease width of gores for larger or smaller sizes. 

3. Divide K — L; 41 — M; 42 — 22; T — 30; -I — 5 into half and draw straight lines down and up 

and down between 4 and 5. From these guide lines just obtained, measure on fullness 
over hip on each gore. Allow for this fullness 34 inch on each side of guide line, as is 
readily seen in diagram. 

4. The seams on shoulders are 2 inches apart and are cut through by gores ; 34 inch is to be 

taken out in darts on hip line in front, as 14 — 15, 16 — 17, 32 — 19, 20 — 38 show. 
Now measure hip, applying the same rule as in previous lessons. Length of this jacket to 
suit customer. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 7Q 




Diagram 38 



80 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ETON JACKET. 

Diagram 39 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8^2 inches 

Waist : 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips i 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9 l / 2 — ■ 7 l /2 inches 

Across Chest 15>4 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8J4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height of Waist: 7 Y /\ — 15^2 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7^4 — 17/4 inches Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in diagram 80. except the front. 

2. From front line D add 1 inch to O — 18 — 27, and draft line as shown through just given 
points to give vest effect. The dart 8 to 9 is 2^4 inches wide and 3 inches below bust 
line. The bottom of Eton may be made to any desired shape. 

This Eton shows a heavy braid trimming around the edges. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 




Diagram 39 



82 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



RUSSIAN BLOUSE. 

Diagram 40 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 

Waist 25 

Hip fl 

Across Chest Id 1 /: 

Neck . 15 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Length Front Waist 7%. — \7y 2 inches 



Under Arm B, l / 2 

Across Back 14 

Shoulder Height Front 9y 2 — l 1 /* 

Shoulder Height, Back 8%— 6 

Neck Height and to Waist...7j4— 15>4 
Length of Shoulder 5Y\ 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line E to J is V/ 2 inches. 

J to 7 is 9 l / 2 inches. 

In this case we need 6% inches, which is J4 °f ^5 inches, the waist measure in back. 

The other 3y\ inches are taken out between th e two gores, L, K, 1J4 inches, 6, 7, 2 inches. 

J K is 3J4 inches. 

K L is 1J4 inches. 

L 6 is 3 inches and 6, 7, is 2 incnes. 

J, K and L 6 is 6*4 inches, }4 of waist measure in back. 

At back shoulder, S to 29 is A l / 2 inches. 

28 to 30 is 8y 2 inches, length of underarm measure. 

Draw new waist line from L to 30. 

Shape back gores as diagram shows. 

From the box line at the first hip in front measure from 78 to 18, 3 inches. 

Draw front line from 27 to 18 ; 27 to D is 7 inches, the highest point of chest. 

27 to M is 17 inches, length waist in front. 

Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

To place dart measure from D on front bust line over 4 inches, and from this point measure 

down to W, 3 inches. 
M to 9 is 6y 2 inches. 
9 to 8 is 2 inches. 

From point W at the top of dart measure down to 69, 7 l / 2 inches. 
From W measure down to 70, 7 l / 2 inches. 
Shape dart at bottom of blouse as diagram shows. 
To make garment double breasted measure from 18 to 71, z / 2 inch. 
71 to 26 is 6 inches. 
From box line to 26 is \y 2 inches. 
Shape the front from 71 to 26. 

To obtain shawl collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck, 21 to 23, 1 inch. 
Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 
32 to 21 is 2^4 inches, l /\ inch more than back neck measure, A O. 
Square over on line 24, 26, 1J4 inches to 25, standing band, and over to 35. 
35 to 36 is x / 2 inch for spring. 
Shape the back line of collar from .25, 24, 21 to 36. 
Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows.. 

Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar. 
To trace lapel, break on line 26, 24, turn the paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which 

will be reversed on opposite side. 

TO MAKE SKIRT. 
Draw line from 6 to 8, which is Y\ of bust measure, 9y 2 inches plus y 2 inch, which is 10. 
Square up on line 6, 8 to 9. which is % of bust measure, 4^4 inches plus \y 2 inches, which is 

6% inches. 
8 to 7 is 3 inches, and shape waist from 9 through 7 to 6. 
Measure from 6, 7 and 9, \2y 2 inches, y 2 of waist measure. 
What remains over is eased in at the waist line. 
Measure down from waist line to dotted line 4 inches to 14, 15. 
Measure 14, 15 — 20J. inches, y' 2 of hip measure. 
Come out from front line on hip ^ of an inch from 14 to 11. 

6 to 17 is 18 inches at front and 9 to 12 at back is 8 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. 
Draw front line from 6 to 11 to 13. 

To make inverted pleat measure from 9 to 10, 2 inches at the top of waist line. 
At the bottom 12 to 16, 4 inches. 
To form inverted pleat take up on line 9, 12, and meet center back line, 10, 16. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



83 




Diagram 40 



84 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT. 

Diagram 41 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8>^ inches 

Waist .- 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9 l / 2 — 7 l / 2 inches 

Across Chest 15>4 inches Shoulder Heights Back ....$>% — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height of Waist 7j4 — 15J4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 — 17 inches Length of Shoulder 5% inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

For making jacket use exactly the same rules and descriptions used in tight fitting jacket. Dia- 
gram in this instance shows a separate lapel, and is made exactly like the tight fitting 
jacket, with the exception of the shape of collar and lapel. Also notice that jacket is 
cut through from back gore, point L to front of garment point 40, to which separate skirt 
is fastened. 

Skirts Square points 33 — 32 from 23. 23 to 33 is J4 of bust measure, 9 l / 2 inches; 23 to 
32 is l /& of bust measure plus 1 inch, 5J4 inches. From 33 to 10 and from 32 to 13 is 
4 inches all around waist, making hip measure. 23 to 31 is 3 inches. Draft waist line 
from 33 through 31 to 32, which is l / 2 of waist measure, less back. J — K. 

10 to 19 is ]/ 2 inch ; draw line down through 19 from 33 ; make skirt 8 inches deep and 8 inches 
all around from waist line. Add plaits on back to correspond with jacket, which com- 
pletes diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



85 




Diagram 41 



86 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE FRONT JACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST. 

Diagram 42. 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm % l / 2 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9^2— 7 l / 2 inches 

Across Chest 15>4 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8^4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Length Back to Waist 7 l / A — \S]/ 2 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7y At —\7y 2 inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow tight fitting jacket for back, side gores, back gores, and front, then shape gores 

and back to any desired length as diagram shows. 

Using the center front of the tight fitting jacket, shape vest as diagram shows, about 2 
inches below waist line. The vest in this diagram is the shaded portion of drawing. 

2. Measure for shawl collar 1 inch from deepest point at neck line 23, and draw straight 

line from bottom of front point 53 through point 40. Now draft line from neck curve 
front line X to 21 upward and make this distance the same length as neck curve back 
A — O, giving point 21. Placing square on line 53 — 23, draw a line from 21 through 
point 24 to 25. Draft shawl, starting at point 53 to top of collar (neck back) and draft 
under collar from point 25, touching shawl as diagram shows. 

Break line 24 — 53 by turning paper under and trace shawl toward front as diagram shows. 
Place separate piece of paper under the under collar and trace out according to dia- 
gram. The vest must be traced out the same way by laying paper under front. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



87 



25 24 




-3>B 



Diagram 42 



88 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST. 

Diagram 43 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8yi inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9j^ — 7y!> inches 

Across Chest 15^4 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8^4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height of Waist 7% — 15^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7% — 17^2 inches Length of Shoulder 5% inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Use Lesson No. 1 for box. 

2. Shoulder heights and armscye are same as tight fitting vest. 

3. From 5 to 4 is 2 inches, and shape as shown. 
4 to J is }4 waist measure, 6% inches. 

J to E is held in with strap. 

Measure from 5 to 9, 6^/4 inches, Y^ of waist, distance from 9 — 18 must be taken out in 
dart 9 — 8 2 l / 2 inches, and shape dart as shown. 

4. Collar is the same as described in diagram 41. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



89 




Diagram 43 



90 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT FITTING VEST. 

Diagram 44 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm % l /> inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights, Front 9 l / 2 — 7y 2 inches 

Across Chest 15J4 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8% inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist.. 7% — 15 J4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7}4 — 17^ inches Length of Shoulder 5M inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
1. Use Lesson No. 1 for box. 

A to C is 7 inches, length in back; P to C is 5% inches, second shoulder height back; square 
A and P on line A— F ; P to R is 6 l / 2 inches, l / 2 width of back. S is about 1 inch from 
R ; A to N is 2 l / 2 inches, which distance changes ; C to Y is 2y 2 inches, this distance 
changes ]/% inch more or less for respective sizes ; Y to O is 8 inches, first shoulder 
height back. 

H to 3 is 7 inches, second shoulder height front ; G to X is 9 inches, first shoulder height 
front ; I is 2 inches 'from X, this varies according to measure, allowing % inch more for 
larger sizes and }i inch less for smaller sizes. E to J is 1 inch : connect J with A, and 
shape slightly as shown. 

Draft line A — O. Connect O with S. 3 to line X is same distance as O — S. 

Draft line X — 27. 

Armscye for vest is always 1 inch larger all around than the regular jacket. The dotted 
line shows the jacket and the heavy line all around it the vest armscye. 

3. J to K is 3y 2 inches ; K to L is 1 inch ; L to 4 is 2J4 inches ; 4 to 5 is 2 inches ; now draft 

gore in back as shown. 

Front and darts are same as- tight fitting jacket. 

4. Allow for button stand 34 inch. 

Draft bottom to any shape desired. From 27 on neck diagram shows a standing collar. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



91 




Diagram 44 



92 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

EMPIRE JACKET. 

Diagram 45 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8y> inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9 l / 2 — ■ 7 l / 2 inches 

Across Chest 15^ inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8*4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist....7*4 — 15^4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 l /± — \7y 2 inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
Follow same instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons 
Our natural waist line is V. 

Measure from the natural waist line up 2 inches to E. 
L to J is Yz inch. 
J to K is 3^4 inches. 
K to L is ->4 of an inch. 
L to 6 is 5 inches. 
6 to 7 is 1 inch. 
Take the center of L — K. which gives us point 5. Square down where line crosses on first hip ; 

measure 34 inch to 10 and *4 inch to 15. 
Where line crosses on second hip, measure ^4 of an inch to 38 and 1 inch to 39. 
On bust line, Y to U is 2 inches. 

At back shoulder, O to T is 3 inches and T to S is 2% inches. Shape as shown. 
28 to 30 is 6*4 inches underarm measure. 
Take the center of 6 and 7, which gives us point 9. Square down , where line crosses first hip, 

measure JMs inch to 14 and */\ inch to 13. 
Where line crosses ^-ond hip, measure ¥i inch to 37 and iy inches to 29, and shape as shown. 
Measure hip from 8 to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to 33, which is 20}4 inches, y 2 of hip measure. 
33 to 18 is 1 inch allowed. This 1 inch is taken out between the dart on hip line, 16 — 17. 
Measure back neck, A — O, 2y 2 inches. 

Place these 2*4 inches on point 32 at front neck and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure. 
Draw front line from through 18 to length of coat. 
27 to D is 7 j inches, the highest point of chest. 

27 to 4 is 16 inches, length front of waist. Draw waist line from 30 to 4. 
At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder, O T. 
From Q on front bust line measure 3}4 inches to W. 
At waist linefrom the center front line measure 4 inches to 50. 
Take out, between 50 and 51, 34 of an inch. 
At hip line, from 18 to 17, is 4*4 inches. 
17 to 16 is 1 inch. 
At shoulder, from 22 to 20, 2 inches are taken out; these 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives 

us point 19. 
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. 
Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. 
To make garment double breasted, measure from front line, — 18, 2*4 inches, to 26, and for 

buttons measure the same distance back from front line, Q — 18. Mark buttons as dia- 
gram shows. Cut garment bias. 
In order to have garment without a seam from the waist line down, lay the front part of garment 

together at point 50 to 51 and cut in one, as shown in the illustration. 
To obtain collar and lapel, measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23, 1 inch. 
Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 
32 to 21 is 2i/i inches, or *4 inch more than the neck measure, A — O. 
Square over on line 24 — 26 1*4 inches to 25 for standing band, and over to 35 any desired width 

for collar. 35 to 36 is y 2 inch spring for collar. 
Shape back of collar from 25 — 24, 21 to 36. 
Shape the colar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape. 
To trace lapel, break on line 26 — 24, turn paper under and trace out shape of lapel, which will 

be reversed on the opposite side. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



93 




94 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE NORFOLK JACKET FROM BLOCK PATTERN 

Diagram 46 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Use a block pattern, cut the box pleat any desired width, in this case 2 inches wide when finished. 

To make back box pleat, draw straight line the length of coat, which is 2 — 19. 

Allow 2 inches, which gives us points 3 — 18. For under pleat allow at top from 3 to 4, and 
2 to 1 is 1 inch. At bottom, from 19 to 20 and 18 to 17, 1 inch. This forms the under 
pleat by creasing on line 3 — 18 and 2 — 19, turn under and stitch together 1 — A — 17 — 20 
to the seam of coat. 

Draft front box pleat from the front of block pattern. 22 to 33 is 1 inch ; 33 to 6 is 2 inches ; 
6 to 5 is 1 inch. At bottom, 14 to B is 1 inch; 14 to 15 is 2 inches; IS to 16 is 1 inch. 
Form the front pleat the same as back pleat. 

To make belt, measure the distance from 39 to 38 — 37 to 34, which is the- same distance from 11 
to 9 and 12 to 10. Square over on line 9 — 10 to front of coat, from this point allow 
y 2 inch to 7, and 1}4 inches to 8. Shape belt as diagram shows. 

For front collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



95 







< 
< 



»8 C 



96 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



NORFOLK JACKET 

Diagram 47 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hip 41 inches 



Across Chest I5y 2 inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 — 17 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS 



Underarm &y 2 inches 

Across Back 14 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9 l / 2 — 7 l / 2 inches 

Shoulder Height Back 8*4 — 6 inches 

Neck Height and. to Waist.. .7^ — \S]/ 2 inches 
Length of Shoulder 5-J4 inches 



For complete box follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

On back bust line from C to V is 4 inches, U to T is 2 inches. 

At waist line in back, from E to J l / 2 inch. Draw line from A through J to full length. 

J to K, 3 inches. 

K to L, l / 2 inch. 

L to 5, 2 inches. 

5 to 49, }4 inch. 

49 to 7, 4 inches. 

7 to 6, 34 inch. 

Take center of L K, square down where this line crosses on 

hip, measure $4 inch to 15 for back part. For second 

gore in back, square up and down from points 5 — L. 

For third gore in back, measure from point 48 on hip J4 

inch to 10. 



Take center of 6 — 7, square up and down where this line crosses 
on hip, measure }i inch to 14 and j>4 inch to 13; 28 to 53 
is 8 z / 2 inches, length of underarm. 

Draw new waist line from L to 53. Shape gores as shown. 

To draft back yoke, measure from C on back bust line 1 inch 
to 55. 



Take 



center of second gore on bust 



line, measure y 2 inch down 
to 54. Point 29 is Y\ inch above bust line. Shape yok< 
from 55 through U-54 — T — 29. Measure hip from 56 tf 
15, 47 to 48, 10 to 14; 13 to 57 is y of hip measure, 20X 
inches. From this point allow \y> inches to 58, which is 
taken out between the two front darts at waist and hip 
line. Draw front line from O throueh 58 to 20. 



From 27 to M is 17 inches, length of waist in front, 
waist line from 53 to M. 



Draw new 




From Q on front bust line measure 3y 2 inches to W, and W to 

V is 2 inches. Square down points W and V to full length. 
Measure from W to 17, 3 inches, and from Y to 16, 2y inches for height of darts. 
At front waist line from 37 to 9 is y inch taken out ; 38 to 8 is I inch taken out, same distance 

on hip. Shape gores as shown. 
To draft front yoke, measure from 4 on bust line, y 2 inch to 3, and re-shape armscye from 3 to 2. 

Shape yoke from 3 through V — W to 34. 
For double breasted collar and lapel follow sam e instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. 
Cut yoke from shoulder to bust line as shown inown in blouse shirt waist diagram. 
diagram 81, page lbc 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



97 




18 20 



Diagram 47 



93 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TO DRAFT NEW SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER. 

Diagram 48 

MEASURES. 

Half of Back 7 inches To Elbow 19>4 inches 

Full Length 29y 2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

A to I is 7 inches across back ; A to L is 19^ inches, elbow length ; A to B is 29 l / 2 inches, full 
length ; I to D is % of bust measure, less 1 inch, '3j4 inches ; I to M is 2 inches. 

Square over all the given points on line A — B. 

I to R is J /i bust measure, 9 inches. 

Square R to H. M to N is l /g of bust, 4 l / 2 inches. N to O is 1%. inches. 

O to P is l /> inch ; T to R is 1 inch ; R to W is ^ of bust measure ; H to G is 1 inch. K is the 
center of H — B. K to J is l / 2 inch. 

Draw line from G to E. G to V is 3 inches. G to E is 6 inches. 

Shape sleeve as shown. 

The distance we allowed on shoulder from 43 to 4 and S to 9 is taken off from the top of sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



99 



A 









Diagram 48 



100 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMZN, 

SEMI-FITTING COAT, WITH VEST AND DROP SHOULDER. 

Diagram 49 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm %y 2 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front. . . .9J/2 — 7 l /> inches 

Across Chest 15V2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — ■ 8J4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist. .JV4 — 1^/2 inches 

Length Front of Waist. . . . 7^4 — 17/^ inches Length of Shoulder s 3 A inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line E to J is 34 inch ; I to K is 4 inches ; K to L is $4 inch ; L to 6 is 4y 2 inches ; 6 to 

7 is 1 inch. 
Draw back line A through J to B. 
Take center of L — K which is 11, square down from this point, where line crosses on hip, 

measure % inch to 10 and y 2 inch to 15. 
Take center of 6—7, which is 5, square. down from this point where line crosses on hip, measure 

Y% inch to 14 and $i inch to 13. Measure from 28 to 19 — 8 J / 2 inches length of under- 
arm. 
Draw new waist line from L to 19. Shape as shown. 

At shoulder S to 38 is 2>y 2 inches; R to LT is V/ 2 inches. Square U on line R — I to T, 2 inches. 
Shape back shoulder as shown. 

Measure hip F to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to 33 — 1 / 2 of hip 20^ inches. 
33 to 18 allow \ l / 2 inches. This \y 2 inches we lose in front dart between 8 — 9 at waist, 17 — 

16 at hip line. 
V to M is 17 % inches, length of waist in front. Draw front line Q — M — 18 full length. 
Draw new waist line from 19 to M. 
At waist from M to 9 is 5 inches; 9 to 18 is \y 2 inches. 
At hip 18 to 17 is S%. inches; 17 to 16 is \y 2 inches. 
On bust line H to 40 is 3 inches ; 29 is 2 inches above bust line. Lose y 2 inch from 29 to 30. 

Re-shape arm-scye from 28 to 30. 34 to 3 is 2>4 inches. 
Square point 3, iy 2 inches to 4. 
Shape shoulders and gores as shown. 
When the front seam of coat is more to the side of coat, it is necessary to place a dart under 

the lapel in order to give more Chest. 
At shoulder 32 to 22 is 1 inch; 22 to 20 is \y 2 inches taken out. This V/ 2 inches add on point 

34 to 43. 
On bust line Q to W is 2^4 inches. Shape dart as shown. 
To make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 

19, page 42, with exception of making a notch collar. 
To draft Vest. Shape the front line from 41 on box line through Q to 42. From this line 

measure out 1 inch for lap. Same distance back for buttons. 
Shape vest as shown. 
Connect vest at 20 at shoulder; on front 9 — 17. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 101 




Diagram 49 



Collars 



Leggins 



Hoods 



104 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR. 

Diagram 50 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A — B 8 inches, Yi of neck measure. A to D is 5yi inches, and square lines to 

C and B. 

2. Divide line A — B into 3 parts, making points J and I. which points square up. 

3. From D to K is iy> inches. From line J to points E and F respectively is 44 inch, and 

from line I to G and H is the same. 

4. Now shape collar as diagram shows. 



CHILD'S TURN DOWN COLL\R 

Diagram 51 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line 33 — 35, which is 63^2 inches neck measure. From 33 to 32 is \ l / 2 inches; from 
32 — 30 is 2 inches; go in to 31 !/> inch; from 35 to 34 is 2 inches, the height of collar. 

Now connect 32 with 35, 31 and 34. 

From 34 to 29 is 2J^ inches. From 29 to 28 is 1 1 / 2 inches. From 30 to 27 is 3 inches, and 
from 26 to 27 is Yi inch. 

Now connect 28 with 26 31 — 32 with 35 — 34 with 28, shape as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



105 




Diagram 50 




Diagram 51 



106 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



STANDING COLLAR. 

Diagram 52 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line 19 — 24 16 inches, neck measure, and divide into half for point 23. Square point 

up. 

23 to 21 is 4 inches, and square to points 17 — 15. 

2. 21 to 22 is iy 2 inches; 24 to 16 is \y 2 inches; 19 to 18 is l l / 2 inches; 17 to 20 is Y A inch; 

25 — 15 is 34 inch. 

Now connect points, as shown in diagram. 



TURN DOWN COLLAR. 

Diagram 53 

* 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line 1 ■— W 8 inches, l /2 of neck measure, and square lines up. W to V is l l /2 inches; 

1 to Z is 2y> niches, height of collar. From V to U is 2V 2 inches, and Y% inch from 
line W— T. 

2. Connect V with 1 and U with Z and shape, as shown in diagram. 

3. Take center of line U — Z and measure from Y to X % inch, and connect with curve line 

Z— X— U. 

Measure from Z to S 3 inches; S — R is 1% inches; draw line Z — R, which is same dis- 
tance as U — T, and shape collar, as shown in diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



107 





Diagram 53 



108 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN. 

Diagram 54 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 

Waist 25 

Hips 41 



inches 
inches 
inches 



Across Chest 15^ inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist.... 7J4 — 1.7^ inches 



Underarm 8^2 

Across Back 14 

Shoulder Heights Front. . . .9^2 — 7J4 

Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8% 

Neck Height and to Waist. .J l A — 15 J/2 
Length of Shoulder 5% 



nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

First Dolman : Take measure over arms, over fullest part of bust, as drawing shows, 1 — 2. 

Second Dolman : Take measure from center of back, 2 inches above waist to elbow of lady 
standing in an easy pose, 3—4. 

Inside elbow to wrist : Take measure from elbow to wrist, 6 — 5. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



109 




Diagram 54 



!10 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

OPERA CLOAK. 

Diagram 55 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 9 inches 

Hips 43 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Across Chest 15 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5->4 inches 

N'eck 15}4 inches Neck Height to Waist... 7 — 15!/> inches 

1st and 2d Dolman 46 — 10J/ inches Tnside Elbow to Wrist 7}4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1 . Draw line A — B. C is first Dolman ( measure overarm at bust ) . 

C to A is 7 inches, length in back: E is waist; A to E is 15 T 4 inches; F and B, first and 
second hip measure, 4 inches. 

2. Square line C — E — F — B on line A — B. 

C — D is 23 inches first Dolman; D to O is J4 inch allowance for breathing. Divide 19 

inches, J4 of bust measure, into quarters, which is 4% inches, and measure off from D 

to G. 
From G to H measure off l /% of 19 inches plus 1J4 inches; namely, 3% inches. 
From C to I is 6}4 inches across back measure. Find center of I and H, which is point 7. 

Draw line up on 7 to T, which is % of J4 bust measure plus 1 inch; namely, $V\ inches. 

Draw lines on H and D up and down, and up on I and G. 

3. E to J is 1 inch. Draw line from J through C to M ; M to C is 7 inches, length in back. 

C to P is 6 inches, second shoulder height back, and square off on line M — J. 
Measure from M to N 2 l / 2 inches. 
From P to R is 6^2 inches, width of back ; Y to O is 8 inches, second shoulder height in 

back; R to I is 5^4 inches, first shoulder height in back. 
From P to R is 6 '4 inches, width of back; Y to O is 8}4 inches, second shoulder height in 

back ; R to I is 6 inches, first shoulder height in back. 
From H to 3 is 7% inches, first shoulder height in front. 
G to X is 9 inches, second shoulder height in front. 

X to 1 is 2 inches. This varies according to size, more for larger, less for smaller sizes. 
Square point 1 to point 27 and intersect line at 3. 
Point W is 1 inch above bust line and 2 inches from line I ; from line H is the same as 

point 4. Now connect M — O — R — W — and W — T — 4 to line 3. 
X to line 3 is same distance as O to R. Draft neck curve front X — 27. 

4. Hip measure is 21-4 inches; half of 21% is 103^ inches; measure this from 17 to 18. 
Now draft front line 27 — Q — 18 to 47, which is length of garment. This is a perfectly 

straight line. 
In order to get length of garment in back, measure from M to 49, 58 inches, and square on 
line A — B as diagram shows. 

5. In order to get the minimum fullness of garment at bottom multiply bust measure, 19 inches. 

by 2 l /\, which gives 42?4 inches: measure this from 47 to 48. 
Now draft a nicely shaped line from J to 48 as shown. 
Sweep at bottom 48 to 27 is slightly curved. This completes garment. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



11 




Diagram 55 



112 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ULSTER WITH DOLMAN SLEEVE. 

Diagram S6 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Waist 25 inches Shoulder Heights Hack 8 — 5-^4 inches 

Hips 43 inches Neck Height to Waist... 7 — 15^4 inches 

Across Chest IS inches Across Back 13 inches 

Neck 15! 2 inches Underarm 9 inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 1st and 2d Dolman 46 — lOj/j inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist 7 l /i inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Use same construction lines as on Opera Cloak on previous page. 

For back part follow diagram 58, page 115, with the exception from J toK, which is 2 
inches, and draw line up from K lo S. This is called Dolman back. 

A to 49 is 58 inches, full length of garment. For plaits in back follow our diagram. 

2. The first Dolman is 23 inches ; use this measure to get point Z, by placing your measure 

at D and measure to Z, less 6yi inches across back measure. Find center of H — Z. 
namely 7, and go up to T, which is l /% of bust plus 1 inch, 5^4 inches. Z to 2 is same 
distance as W — I. 

5. 4 is \ l / 2 inches above bust line and \ l /2 inches from line H. The shoulder height and neck 
front are same as in diagram 58, page 115. Front line is same as Opera Cloak lesson. 

4. Second Dolman is always 2 inches above waist line point 26. Second Dolman measure is 

1034 inches; 26 to 6 is 10^ inches, less back 19 — 16. Now connect 6 — 2 — T — 4 and lo 
line 3. 

5. From 6 draw line to 48, which is iy 2 times 19 inches bust measure, less back. Follow 

diagram for plaits on this line, same as on back. 

Sweep same in previous lesson, Ulster No. 1, diagram 68, page 136. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



113 




Diagram 56 



114 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



FICHU NO. 3. 

Diagram 57 

MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hips - 43 inches 

Across Chest 15 inches 

Neck \5y 2 inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 



Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back... 8 — 5% inches 

Neck Height of Waist 7 — 15^2 inches 

Across Back 13 inches 

Underarm 9 inches 

1st and 2d Dolman 46 — 10y 2 inches 



Inside Elbow to Wrist 7yi inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions as in Opera Cloak Lesson No. 1, with exception of following points: 

2. A to C is straight ; E to J is Y\ inch, and shape back as shown. 

2 to Z is 3 inches, and shape bottom of Fichu as shown from F through Z to L on front 
line, or any desired shape. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



115 




Diagram 57 



116 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM3N. 



FICHU NO. 4. 

Diagram 58 

MEASURES. 



Bust 38 

Waist 25 

Hips 43 

Across Chest 15 

Neck I5y 2 

Length Waist in Front 8—18 



inches Shoulder Height Front 9 — ■ 7 inches 

inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5^4 inches 

inches Neck Height of Waist 7 - \Sy 2 inches 

inches Across Back 13 inches 

inches Underarm 9 inches 

inches 1st and 2d Dolman 46- — 10J4 inches 



Inside Elbow to Wrist 7y 2 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 2. 

2. For plaits follow our diagram closely. 

3. Curve from E to Z, which is 3 inches above waist line, same as Fichu No. 3, with the 

difference of shape in front. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



117 




Diagram 58 



US THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DOLMAN NO. 5. 

Diagram 59 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Waist 25 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5% inches 

Hips 43 inches Neck Height to Waist 7 — lS^ inches 

Across Chest 15 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Neck 15^2 inches Underarm 9 inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 1st and 2d Dolman 46 — 10^ inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist 7^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 2 for construction lines back and front. Measure hip 
the same to obtain 18. 

Now measure D to H on bust line, which in this case is 8-H; inches ; deduct this from Dol- 
man 23 inches, and measure balance, 14% inches, from C to Z on bust line. Divide Z 
and I into half for point 7 and go up to T 5% inches, which is l /\ of bust plus 1 inch; 
go down from 7 to 26 to 2 inches above waist line, giving second Dolman point. 

Draw second Dolman line from 26 to 16. Measure 16 — 19 width of back 2 inches ; 10^ 
inches, second Dolman, minus 2 inches leaves 8^4 inches, which is measured from 26 to 
point 6. From H to 4 is a loss of 1 inch ; this inch is made up by going from Z to 35 
toward front. 

Inside sleeve from elbow to wrist is 7yi inches; this is measured from 36 to U, the same 
from 2 to V. U to L is a straight line down ; L to 13 is 1 inch. Now connect line U — 13 
and 15. From U to 15 is 16 inches, length of sleeve. 

Now draft curve, starting at 6 to W through T — 35 and U. From 6 to S is a slight curve 
backwards. Connect S with 15 as shown. 

Now connect V with 47 as shown, and V — 4 up to shoulder front. 



■> 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 119 



kw 



-<*>' 



■4 



G 4J 



<$> 



-$ 



V U 



35 J 



<S> 



--<S> 



36 



<•> 



26 



■W-fflf" 



■®r 




"47 



Diagram 59 



120 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DOLMAN NO. 6. 

Diagram 60 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Shoulder Height Front 9 — 7 inches 

Waist 25 inches Shoulder Height Back 8 — 5j4 inches 

Hips 43 inches Neck Height to Waist 7 — 15y 2 inches 

Across Chest 15 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Neck 15J4 inches Underarm 9 inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 1st and 2d Dolman 46 — I0y 2 inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist 7y 2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 5 and note the change of back. E to J is 1 inch. Point 

W is \y 2 inches from line R — I and bust line. 

2. From 35 to 11 is J4 inch; now draw line 11 — 30 to 13; 30 is 10 inches from V. 17 to V 

is 2y 2 inches. Now connect points 3 — 4 — V — 16 — 10 — 47, as diagram shows. 

3. Place separate piece of paper under sleeve and trace 13 — 10 — 11 to U. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



121 




Diagram 60 



122 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DOLMAN NO. 7. 

Diagram 61 

MEASURES. 



38 



Zd 



Bust 

Waist 

Hips 43 

Across Chest 15 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



X'eck 1 5^2 inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 



Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 544 inches 

Neck Height to Waist 7— 15*/2 inches 

Across Back 13 inches 

Underarm 9 inches 

1st and 2d Dolman 46 — 10*/ inches 



Inside Elbow to Wrist 7V 2 inches 



1. 

9 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow instructions of Dolman No. 5 for back and front, with exception of following: 

35 to 11 is yl of an inch. Point 41 is half way between waist and hip line. For under 
sleeve connect line 41 and 11. The V shapes are 1 inch between 21 — 40 and 34 — 22, and 
are 5 inches deep to points 30 — 29. 

Now break hip line 13 — 10 and turn under, and trace 10 to 41 — 22 to 30—34 — 40—29— 
21— 11— U— 13. 

18 to V is hip measure less back, nameiy. 21 1 / inches. 

V to 15 is 2 inches. Now conect 3 — 4 — 15 and 15 with 39. Take out 2 darts in V shape, 
1 inch between 42 — 37 and 28 — 23, making them 5 inches deep to points 38 — 25. Now 
shape line 39 — 4-7 as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



123 




--nTr-TrvT ■■~rjx 



Diagram 61 



124 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DOLMAN NO. 8. 

Diagram 62 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5-)4 inches 

Waist , 25 inches Neck Height to Waist 7 — 15^ inches 

Hips 43 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Across Chest IS inches Underarm 9 inches 

Neck 15^4 inches Underarm 9 inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 1st and 2d Dolman 46 — 10^ inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist 7^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1 . Follow instructions of Dolman No. 7 for back with the following exceptions : 

8 to 45 is 2 inches. 45 to 41 is 1 inch. Connect 45 with 11 and take out 2 Vs, same as 
Dolman No. 7. 

L to 13 is 1 inch, and connect with 23, which is center between waist and hip. Now break 
line 13 — 23 and follow same rules as Dolman No. 7. 

2. D to 43 is bust measure less W — C, width of back plus 1 inch; namely, 15^2 inches. 43 to 

46 is 2 inches down, same as 8 to 45 in back. Connect 46 with 31, going slightly out. 

From 25 to 24 is \y 2 inches, and 2 — 29 is also \y 2 inches. Divide 25 — 24 into half and 
square down ; and 2 — 29, and square up and down. 

Now shape gore from 52 to 24 — 46—9 to 39—51 and front 37 to 2—9 — A — 3. Shape bot- 
tom 37 to 47, following diagram closely. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



125 




Diagram 62 



126 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



CAPE WITH ONE DART. 

(38 inch Bust.) 
Diagram 63 



3 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A — B and square to D. 

Take jacket pattern, front and back, and place same in square as shown with dotted lines. 

Let C be 8 inches and H 8^ inches from A, E to F is \]/ 2 inches at waist, which leaves a 
space of 1 inch between M and N and ->4 inch between L and O. 

L — M — K gives dart on shoulder. 

L'se A as a pivot and sweep to any desired length. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



127 




Q(& 



Diagram 6} 



128 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



CAPE WITH TWO DARTS. 

(38 inch Bust.) 

Diagram 64 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Use same rule as for previous cape and find center of N and M; namely, R, and connect 

with a guide line to A. 

2. T and S are 1% inches from R. 

P and L is M inch from Y. Square Y on line A — R. Do same with point R. For darts 
connect O — T — L — P — K to 27. Use A as a pivot and sweep to any desired length. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



129 




Diagram 64 



!30 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



COACHMAN'S FUR CAPE. 

Diagram 65 

MEASURES. 
Rust 38 inches First Dolman ....46 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. For box. use same rule as our loose front Jacket No. 1, only making it to the waist line. 

Draft shoulders, neck curves, at front and back, same as Lesson No. 2. 

2. From front shoulder take Yi inch off and allow this on back shoulder, as shown. This is 

to bring shoulder seam right in center of shoulder. From I to T is 4 inches ; increase or 
decrease this distance Yz inch for respective sizes. Now draft line from L through S 
and T and slightly toward front to K ; this completes back. 

Measure distance T to C, which in this case is 10 inches, and place this 10 inches on front 
point D, and measure Dolman 23 inches, giving point 8. Now draft line from V 
through 2, through 8 and slightly toward back to W. This completes diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



131 



<j a, 







Diagram 65 



132 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMiN. 



HOW TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT 



Diagram 66 



FRONT— FIGURE 1. 

To grade from 36 to 38 bust: 

Your heavy line in this diagram shows your 36 bust, FRONT PART. 

Mark out your front A, B and C, then raise your shoulder 3-16 of an inch to obtain your 38 
shoulder, G, R, H and T. 

After this has been done, move your front ]/& of an inch over (parallel with front) half way 
between 3 and 4, and grade your dart R, I, H. 

Then move your front l /% of an inch again over to point 4 (parallel with front) to obtain arm- 
scye, 10 — T. 

Bring your pattern down to original shoulder, keeping front on point 4, and continue armscyc, 
10 to Z. 

Underarm seam is graded l /> inch from O to Z, straight down to K and Y. 

To grade down from 36 to 34, use the same instructions as above, only grading down, using 
the same measurements. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



133 




Diagram 66 






134 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT. 

{Continued) 

Diagram 67 

BACK PART— FIGURE 2. 

Your heavy line in this diagram shows your 36 bust, BACK PART. 

Raise your back shoulder 3-16 of an inch to line D — E. 

Move your pattern over across back ' 4 inch from 3 to 4 to get point 10. 

After obtaining this point 10, move your pattern down to your original 36 shoulder. 11 — T. 
keeping back on point 4 parallel. 

\ow connect 10 with E and 10 with P. 

I' to ( ), underarm seam, is ]A inch, straight down to L — K. 

I ci make back shoulder and neck correspond with your front, take oft" % inch on shoulder point, 
H — E, and proceed from D- -W, raising W 1-16 inch from B. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



135 




Diagram 67 



136 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ULSTER NO. 1. 

Diagram 68 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 

Waist ^„2~? 

Hips 43 

Across Chest 15 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Neck 15^4 inches 



Across Back 13 inches 

Underarm 9 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 53/\ inches 

Length Back to Waist 7 — 15j^ inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. This draft is made by cutting out any jacket, tight or loose fitting, to the second hip. Then 

draw box, with the exception of shoulder heights, as Lesson No. 1 explains ; after notch- 
ing the pattern at bust line, place notches on bust line of box and straight on line A — B 
as diagram shows ; let point N be 6 inches below waist line and continue gores down 
straight to points S — W. Continue front line down straight to point V. Also note 
point X, which is 6 inches below waist line. 

2. To get sweep at bottom of ulster, multiply bust measure 19 inches 2j4 times, giving 42f4 

inches, and measure this from V to S, W to B, and whatever is missing to make AH/j, 
inches measure 1-3 of remainder from W to T and 2-3 from S to C, and shape straight 
up to gores as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



M7 




DlAGRAM 68 



138 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ULSTER NO. 2. 

Diagram 69 

MEASURES. 



Bust - 38 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 9 inches 



38 


inches 


25 


inches 


43 


inches 


15 


inches 



Hip S 43 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Across Chest - 15 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5$4 inches 

Neck 15>4 inches Length Back to Waist 7 — \h l /i inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

The two gores in this draft are placed together, leaving back and front alone. Follow the 
same instructions as on Ulster No. 1, and note point N to be 6 inches below waist line. 

Figure the sweep the same as Ulster No. 1, being careful always to let 2-3 of remainder of 
sweep go toward back and 1/3 toward front. Diagram shows same. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



H9 




Diagram 69 



14" 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



PRINCESS DRESS. 

Diagram 70 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 

Waist 25 

Hips 43 

Across Chest 15 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Neck 1 5 ' 4 inches 



Across Back 13 inches 

Underarm 9 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5^ inches 

Length Back to Waist 7 -]5 l / 2 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

The draft is already explained in the preceding lesson, with the exception that back and back 
gore are separate. A garment of this kind is always cut with a large flare and a train, 
but diagram only shows little Hare. Use the same rules in getting sweep as Ulster No. 1. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



141 




Diagram 70 



142 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOOD NO. 1. 

Diagram 71 

MEASURES. 
Bust 36 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

I )rav\ line E and B. 

E to D and E to F anil F to II is always S4of bust measure, 9 inches. Square points just 
given, which constitute box. 

Place jacket hack and front together as dotted line shows, and draft neck curve E to C; 
( to A is front of jacket or cape. Now draft curve 1! through G to A, as shown; '4 
inch all around this curve is stitched and cord placed between to give the desired effect 
w hen wearing hood. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



143 




Diagram 71 



144 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOOD NO. 2. 

Diagram 72 

MEASURES. 
Bust 36 inches 

1. Top of this hood is same as No. 1, with exception of F to B being % of bust, A]/' 2 inches. 

2. From F to P is 4 inches, and from B to I is 5^2 inches, increase or decrease these distances 

for respective sizes ; I to H is 1 inch. Now connect these points with straight line, as 
shown. 

Now draft curve from H through G to A. 



HOOD NO. 3 

Diagram 73 

MEASURES. 

Bust 36 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
1. Follow instructions as No. 2, with exception of following: 



■> 



B to 1 is 6', 2 inches, and I id I 1 is 2 inches; draft line B to H to line j, as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



145 




B J 




Diagram 72 
No. 2 



Diagram 73 
No. 3 



146 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



KNEE LEGGINGS. 

Diagram 74 

MEASURES. 

Knee 6J/2 inches Instep 7 inches 

Calf 7 inches Shoe Length 9 inches 

Ankle 5 inches Full Length 20 inches 

Calf Length S l / 2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line O — G, which is full length, 20 inches. 
O to X is 5J/2 inches, calf length. 

G to F is 2y 2 inches, and F to D is 2 inches; these measures never vary. 

2. Square points O, X, D, F and G. 

From D to P is ankle measure, 5 inches; square line up and down from P, giving points 
M and Z. 

Knee measure is 6% inches from M to A. L to C is calf measure, 7 inches. 

From G to B go out Y\ inch and measure from F to E ^4 inch. Shape line from B through 

E— D— C to A. 

3. Instep from B to J is 7 inches. 

From B to I is 9 inches, shoe length. From Z to H is 1 inch. Draft line from B througli 
0— -H to I, and I through J— P— L to M. 

4. N is half distance between O and M, which square to Q, giving button line. 
This completes knee leggings. 



SHOE LEGGINGS. 

Diagram 75 

These leggings are the same as knee leggings, except that the length is 3 inches. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



147 




Diagram 74 



Diagram 75 



Waists 



150 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



WAIST. 
FIRST LESSON. 

Diagram 76 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back 14 inche- 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 2>y 2 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front. . . .9 '4 — ~jVi inches 

Across Chest 15^ inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8*4 inches 

\ T eck . . . 14 inches Length Back to Waist 7^4—15^ inches 

Length Front of Waist. . . .7% — 17^ inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A B. 

From A to C is 7 l /\ inches, neck height in back. 
From A to E is 15^ inches, length of waist in back. 
E to B is 4 inches, the first hip. 
Square over points C. E, B on line A, B. 

From C to D is j4 of bust measure plus 1 inch. In this case 20 inches. 
■This 1 inch we allowed is lost in cutting out the pattern. 
D to Q is ]/ 2 inch allowed for breathing. 
D to G is 34 OI bust measure, in this case 5 inches. 
G to H is yi of bust measure plus l, T /> inches. In this case 4 inches. 
C to 1 is 7 inches, ] 2 of back measure. 
Square point D and H, up and down. 
Square up points G, I on line C, D. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 151 



a 



D 



G 



m 



H 



# 



A 



<® 



"# 



E 



B 



■m 



Diagram 76 



152 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



WAIST. 
SECOND LESSON. 



SECOND LESSON. 

Diagram 77 

MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

t lips 41 inches 

Across Chest 15^ inches 

Neck 14 inches 

Length Front of Waist.... 7% — l 7 l A inches 



Across Back 14 inches 

Underarm 8y 2 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front 9}4 — 7/4 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8 l /i — 6 inches 

Length Back to Waist 7%—\5y 2 inches 

Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

C to Y is 2% inches. 

C to P is 6 inches, the second shoulder height back. 

Y to O is 854 inches, the first shoulder height back. 

Square over A and P on line A, B. 

In squaring P over point R is found crossing line I. 

R to S is Yz inch. 

Draft neck, A, O, and draw back shoulder, O, S, 5-K[ inches. 

At front, H to 3 is 7^4 inches, second shoulder height front. 

Square point 3. 

G to X is 9*4 inches, first shoulder height front. 

Square point X over \)A inches, to point 11. 

X to 1 is 2 inches. 

Square over point 1 to 27. 

Draft neck curve from 11 to 27. 

Draw front shoulder from 11 to 3, 5;4 inches, the same as back shoulder, O, S. 

Z to 2 is 7)4 inches, y 2 of chest measure. 

Draft armscye from S through H, 2 to 3. 

In drafting armscve be very careful not to go inside of line 1, R. 

Also do not bring it below the bust line. 

Tt is very important to follow the draft of armscye very carefully, and get the shape as near 
as possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large, 
while a small armscve can easily be made larger. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



15? 




jr 1° 

# ^ 



E 



HD 



-® 



B 



Dl \CR \M 77 



154 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

TIGHT FITTED LINING FRENCH SEAMS. 

Diagram 78 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 8y> inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder I [eights Front. . . . 9.J4 — 7/4 inches 

Across Chest 15^2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8,!4 inches 

Neck 14 inches Length Back and to Waist. .734 — 1 5 ', S inches 

Length Front of Waist. . . .754 — ^7 l A inches Length of Shoulder 5% inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons for Waists. 

Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches. 

T to S is 2i/i inches. 

At waist line, E to J is l/ 2 inches in all cases. 

J to K is 1% inches. 

This measure varies % inch, according to larger or smaller sizes, where the back is tight fit- 
ting with two gores. 

Waist measure, 25 inches; y\ of same is 6*4 inches, which must be divided into ' _• hack and 

two equal gores. 

K to L is 1 inch. 

L to 7 is 7 inches. As we only need 5 inches in this case, the other 2% inches are taken out in 
two darts of \% inches each. The remaining 5 inches are to be divided equally into 
two gores of 2*/> inches each. 

L to 4, 2 l / 2 inches; 4 to 5, ly, inches; 5 to 6, 2 l / 2 inches; 6 to 7, iy inches. 

On hip line measure from B to V 1J4 inches. 

Draw center back line from A through J to V. 

Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure y mcn to 15, J^ inch 
to 10. 

Take the center of 4 and 5, square down where line crosses on hip, measure z /> inch to 75 and 
Y% inch to 74. 

Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure Y\ 
inch to 13 and */<& inch to 14. 

28 to 30 is 8*/i inches length of underarm measure. 

Draw new waist line from L to 30. Shape gores as shown. 

Measure back neck, A O, which is 2 l /> inches, place these 2 l / 2 inches on front neck at point 32, 
measure to 27, which is 14 inches neck measure. 

27 to Q is 7 u inches, the highest point of chest. 

27 to M is \7y 2 inches, length waist in front. 

Draw front line from M through to 27 and down from M to 18 slightly shaped to 71. 

Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

Place the 6}4 inches which is r 4 of waist measure in back on point 30, measure over 12' j 
inches, which is T 2 of waist measure plus y 2 inch, which gives us point 9. 

9 to M is 2y 2 inches. 

These 2y 2 inches more than the natural waist measure are taken out in front dart between 9 
and 8. 

At front shoulder 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder O to T. 

22 to 20 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. 

20 to 19 is 2y inches, the same as back shoulder T S. 

Reshape arm-scye from 28 through H to 19. 

At front bust line D to W is 354 inches. 

Shape the front as diagram shows. 

After the two front gores have been cut out, lay pattern together at points 22 — 20, allowing % 
inch raise at top, as shown by the dotted line points 32 — 22 — 20 to 40. Shape the bot- 
tom of waist as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 155 




Diagram 7& 



156 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

TIGHT LINING WAIST WITH ONE GORE. 

Diagram 7^ 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back- 14 inches 

Waist 2 5 inches Underarm 8}4 inches 

I lips 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front. . . .9^2 — 7^2 inches 

Across Chest 15^ inches Length Back to Waist 7 %\S l / 2 inches 

Neck 14 inches Shoulder Heights Back &% — 6 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 l /\ — \7 l / 2 inches Shoulder 5J4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Folow same instructions as given in first and second lessons for Waists. 

At waist E to J is \y 2 inches; J to 4 is 3*4 inches; 4 to 5 is 1*4 inches; 5 to 6 is 3 inches; 6 to 7 

is 2 inches. 

The distance between J — 4 and 5 — 6 is 34 °f waist measure. 

Take center of 4 — 5 and square down. 

Take center 6 — 7 square up and down. 

28 to 24 is 8 l / 2 inches length of underarm. 

Draw new waist line from 5 to 24; B to F is 1 inch. 

Draw back line from F — J to A. 

S to T at shoulder is 4 I /2 inches. 

Shape two back gores as shown. 

From 27 on neck to D is 7% inches, highest point of chest, down to 34 is 17j/£ inches, length 
front of waist. 

Draw new waist line from 24 to 34. 

At waist in front 34 to 13 is l / 2 inch. 

Draw front line from 13 — Q to 27 slightly shaped to 29. Measure from 7 to 21, }4 of waist 

measure, o,' 4 inches plus y 2 inch to V. From V to front line is 2ji inches which is taken 
inn in front dart 22 — 23. 

From Q on bust line to 15 is 3% inches, brum this point down to 35 is 3 inches, square down 
this point, take out each side of line to 22 — Wg, inches and to 23 — 1%. 

Shape dart and bottom as shown. 

At shoulder 11 to 12 is 2 inches; 12 to 14 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on 
point 3 which gives us point 31. Reshape armscye From 28 to 31. 

Point 16 is lj'j inches below 15. Shape dart as shown. 

It is necessary in all linings and shirt waists to take a dart out on shoulder. Then place dart to- 
gether at points X — 14 down to 35, and cut over new front. The dart at bottom between 
30 — 33 will increase as shown in blouse shirt waist. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



157 



11 X 




Diagram 79 



158 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT-FITTING TWO PIECE LINING. 

Diagram 80 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 8J4 inches 

I lips 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9>4 — 7/4 inches 

Across Chest 15^ inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8*4 inches 

\ - e C k 14 inches Length of Back to Waist T% — 15}4 inches 

I .ength Front of Waist 7 l A— 17 Vi inches Length of Shoulder 5% inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in first and second lessons for waists. 

At waist line E to J is \'/ 2 inches; J to 6 is 5 inches: 6 to 7 is 3 inches. 

At bottom B to F is 1 inch. 

Draw hack line from F, J to A. 

Take center of 6 — 7, square down, from this line to IS is '4 inch and to 17 is 1 inch. T to 7 

is 8' j inches, length of underarm. 

Draw new waist line from J to 10. 

Shape hack gore as shown. 

\l neck 27 to D is 734 inches. Highest point of chest, to 4 is \7y 2 inches, length of waist front. 

Draw new waist line from 10 to 4. From 4 to 13 is '_> inch. Shape front line from 13 — Q 
to 27 slightly shaped to 29. 

Measure waist from 1 to 6 which is 5 inches. Place the 5 inches on point 7. Measure over 
to point 21 which is U of waist 12j/ inches, plus */■ inch to V. From V to front line 
is 2-4 inches which is taken out in front dart, between 5 — 8. 

( In bust line from O to 15 is ly± inches. From this point down to 19 is 3 inches. 

Square down from this point, measure from this line to 5, 1^6 inches and to '8, 1^ inches. 

Shape dart and bottom as shown. 

Follow same instructions for the dart in shoulder as given in diagram 79, page 150. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



15M 



u X 




Diagram 80 



160 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BLOUSE SHIRT WAIST. 

Diagram 81 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38, 

Waist 25 

Hips 41 

Across Chest 15!-; 

Neck 14 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Length Front of Waist.... 7% — 17/4 inches 



Across Back 14 inches 

Underarm 8^2 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9J4 — 7/4 inches 

Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8% inches 

Neck Height and to Waist. .7% — 15J4 inches 
Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in first and second lessons for waists. 

At waist line E to J is 1 inch. 

Draw straight line from A to J to F; J to 6 is 5*4 inches; 6 to 7 is 3 inches. 

On bust line I to T is 1$4 inches; T to 21 is 8*4 inches, length of underarm. " 

I )raw new waist line from J to 21. 

Take center of 7 — 6 which is point 5, square down. Draw line from 5 to T. From this line to 
17 is : >4 inch; to 18 is -]4 inch. 

Shape back gore as shown. 

Take center of 17 — F set in a triangle, which gives more spring on hip as shown, from 14 to 16 

up to 15. 

From 27 to D is 7'/4 inches, highest point of chest, down to 13 is 17*/. inches to length of waist 
in front. 

Draw new waist line from 21 to 13. 

Draw front line from 27— -Q— 13 to 29. 

Shape bottom as shown. 

At shoulder take out a 2 inch dart between 12 — 10 down to 8. Add the 2 inches on point 3 
which gives us point 31. Reshape armscye from LI to 31, the same instruction as given 
in diagram 79, page 156. Cut through on the straight line from 20 to 8. Lay dart together 
at point 12 — 10 to 8, make new pattern where we gain 2Yz inches in the front of waist 
from 14 to 15 in following lesson. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



161 



11 X 




B 



Diagram 81 



162 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



COMPLETE FRONT OF SHIRT WAIST 

Diagram 82 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Showing how to cut a new waist pattern by laying the dart together at Shoulder, points 6 — 17 and 
where we gain the 2]A inches more fullness at bottom of waist from 14 to 15. 

How to apply or make a box pleat on the front of a blouse waist. 

Measure from front line A — 11 over 1 inch to 3 — 10. From 3 to 2 and 10 to 9 is 2 inches. For 
the width of pleat 2 to 1 and 9 to 8 is 1 inch. To form pleat stitch together on lines 1 — 8 
and 4 — 11. Open pleat and press on lines, 2 — 9 and 3 — 10 which will be a 2 inch pleat 
when finished. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



16} 




Diagram 82 



!64 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM3N 



TURN-OVER COLLAR. 
SHOWN IN ILLUSTRATION. 

(ON PAGE 163) 
Diagram 83 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line B D 14 inches, neck measure. L is center of B D. Square up points B L D. L to 
K is Y* inch; K to I is lyi inches, same as D to H — B to J, for under standing collar. 

J — I — H is break line for the turn over collar. I to^r is 2y 2 inches, same as J to A and H to C. 
C to E and A to F is l /z inch. 

Shape collar as shown. Illustration of collar on page 163. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



165 




,C5 



M, 



§> ^HD 




Diagram S3 



166 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BISHOP SLEEVE. 

Diagram 84 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B. A to J is AY- inches, Y& of bust measure. J to D is '£ of bust measure, () 
inches. D to B is J4 of bust measure, 9 inches. Square over ail given points. 

A to E is 16 inches, 1 inches less than V2 of btirt measure. Square down E to K. 

This completes box for sleeve. 

Take center of K — B, which gives us point T. Square down T to M 3 inches. D to Q and I ' 
to G is Yi inch; X to P and J to C is 1 inch;u is V* the distance of A — E. 

Square up O to X 1 inch. A to F is 2 l A inches; E to I is 3V2 inches. 

Shape sleeve as shown. 



TIGHT LINING SLEEVE. 

Diagram 85 

MEASURES. 

Half of Back 7 inches To Elbow 19^ inches 

Full Length 29 I /> inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

From A to M is l /i of back measure, 7 inches ; A to L is 19yi inches to elbow ; A to B is 29/i 
inches to wrist; M to F is J^ of bust measure, A)A inches; F to D is 1 inch. Square over 
all given points. M to S is '4 of bust measure, 9 inches. Square down to H. This com- 
pletes box for sleeve. 

D to I is 2 inches. Square over I to X, 4/2 inches. N is JA the distance of M — S. Square X 
up to ( >. 1 inch. S to L is 2 inches; O to 1' is ]/± inch; T to R is 1 inch; R lo W is J /6 
of bust measure, 4^2 inches ; L to C is 1 incn. Take center of 1j, H, which gives us K. 

G to Y is 3 inches; G to E is 5 inches. Draw uch. Draw line G — F. 

Square down K Yi inch down to J ; H to G is 1 inch. Draw line G — J. 

completes undersleeve. 
Shape top sleeve from G, *R, *P, *L, *0, *I, *C, *E. This completes top sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 167 




fc 



< 

Q 




fe 



< 

Q 



L68 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

TIGHT FITTING PRINCESS FOUR PIECES. 

Diagram 86 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back ...... 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 8)4 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front .9)4 — 7 )4 inches 

Across Chest 15' 2 inches Shoulder Heights Hack 8)4 — 6 inches 

Meek 14 inches Neck Height of Waist 7)4 — 15)4 inches 

Length Front Waist 7'4 — 17)4 inches Length of Shoulder 5-m inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons for waists. 

At waist line, E to J is 1 inch. 

J to 7 is 10 inches. In this case we only need by, inches, which is )4 of 2o waist measure. The 

other 4)4 inches more than needed are taken out between the two darts at back. 
.Measure waist from J K which is 2^4 inches. 
K to L is 1)4 inches ; L to 6 is 3^ inches ; 6 to 7 is 2)4 inches ;. 
J to K and L to 6 is 6)4 inches, )4 of waist measure in back. 

Draw center back line from A through J V to 89, which is 56 inches, the full length of garment. 
The back is cut on the fold of material. 
Take the center of L K, where the line crosses on first hip, measure 1 inch to 15, and •>* inch 

to 10. 
Un second hip, where line crosses, measure 2 inches to 44 and -)4 inch to 43. 
Continue line from 44 to 79, from 43 to 88. 

Square the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down to full length. 
Where line crosses on first hip measure, 1- inches to 13 and J4 inch to 14. 
On second hip where line crosses measure 2)4 inches to 81 and 1)4 inches to 80. 
Continue line down from 81 to 90 and 80 to 87. 
Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches. 
T to S is 2Y\ inches. 

28 to 30 is 8)4 inches underarm measure. 
Draw a new waist line from L to 30. 
Shape back and side gore as diagram shows. 

At hip, measure from V to 10, 15 to 14 and 13 to 33, which is 20)4 inches, )4 of hip measure. 
33 to 18 is 2)4 inches. These 2 1 / 2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip line between 16 

and 17. 
Measure back neck curve A O, which is 2)4 inches. 

Place these 2)4 inches at the front neck on point 32, measure to 27, 15 inches. 
Now draw center front line from 27 through O 18 to 71 full length of garment. 
27 to Q is 7Yi inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to M is Y/Yi inches, length front of waist. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

Measure over 13 inches, which gives us point 9, which is )4 of waist measure. 
Place the 6)4 inches, which is % of waist measure, in back at point 30. 
9 to M is 2)4 inches, these 2)4 inches are taken out in the front dart between °- and 8. 
D to W on front bust line is 3>4 inches, 32 to 22 is 3 inches, 
Front shoulder the same as back shoulder O to T. 
22 to 20 is 2 inches taken out. 

These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. 
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. 
Shape the front as diagram shows. 
Now cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point W at bust line, and meet the two 

points on shoulder, 22 and 20. 
At neck point 32 raise l /\ inch. 
Point 3 remains the same. 
Draw new shoulder from 32 through 3 to 40. 
The front is cut on the fold of material. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



169 




Diagram So 



170 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BLOUSE WAIST. DROP SHOULDER. 

Diagram 87 

MEASURES. 

Liust 38 inches Across Hack 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Under Ann K 1 /-, inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9y&— ~'j inches 

Across Chest 15'. > inches Shoulder Height. Back 8^4 — 6 inches 

Xeck 14 inches Neck Height and to Waist. ...7J4 — 15'A inches 

Length Front of Waist 7% — \7)/i inches Length of Shoulder 5->4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in the Blouse Shirt Waist, diagram 81, page lv} 0. 

< >n bust line from 1 to 19. H to 8 is 5 inches. Square over 8 to 12. 2 inches. 

19 to 10 is 3 '4 inches ; S to 20 is l /i inch ; 3 to 4 is V2 inch. 

Shape armscye and shoulder from — 20 — 10 — T — H — L — 12 — 3 — 11, This completes the 
blouse. 

Draft new sleeve for blouse. 

Draw line LB. L to 15 is '4 bust. 9 inches. 15 to B is '4 bust, 9 inches. 

\j to 21 is 3 inches taken off for cuff as shown in the diagram. This cuff is joined on the bot- 
tom of sleeve 17 — 20, which gives full length. 

Square over the given points, L to 1, 14 inches. 4 inches less than ' j of bust measure. 

Square down 1 to 16. 

21 to 20 is y'2 inch: 16 to 17 is l /2 inch; 15 to 14 is -'4 inch; 12 to 13 is ' 4 inch; 3 to 2 is 2 
inches; 18 to 19 is 1 inch. Shape as shown. 

To place sleeve in blouse, bring notch A. which is the underarm of sleeve, on point L in blouse. 

For cuff 11 to 8 is 8J/2 inches. Take center of 1 1 — 8, square up. 

10 to 9 is 'j inch; 9 to 6, 11 to 7, 8 to 5 is 2>}/ 2 inches. 

Measure from 6 to 7. 6 to 5, 5% inches. 

Shape cuff as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



171 




Diagram 87 



172 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BLOUSE WAIST WITH DEEP ARMHOLE. 

Diagram 88 

MEASURES. 

3 ust 38 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm S,y 2 inches 

j-jjp 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9}4 — 7Y\ inches 

Across Chest 15 J^ inches Shoulder Height Back 8%. — 6 inches 

Ne^ 14 inches Length Back to Waist 7%. — 15^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7*4—17/2 inches Length of Shoulder tyt, inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in first and second lessons for Waists and diagrams 81-82 
Under arm from T to 5 is 3 inches. 
Draw new armhole from A — 2 — 3 10 to S. 
Draft new sleeve for the blouse. 
Draw line 3 to 22. 

10 to 22 is 11 inches, length of sleeve to elbow; 10 to 13 is 2J4 inches, y 4 inch less on each inch, 
"the distance from T to 5 at the underarm of blouse. 

Square points 3—10—13—22 over, 3 to 1 is 14 inches. 

Square 1 down to 19, 5 to 2 is Y& of bust 4}4 inches; 2 to 4 is lj/ 2 inches; 13 to 14—12 to 11 is 

V/2 inches; 19 to 20 is 1 inch; 21 to 22 is 1 inch. 
Draw line from 3 to 6, 6 to 1. 

3 to 8 is 3 3/4 inches and 1 to 7 is 3 Ya inches. 

18 to 17 is Yi inch; 15 to 16 is ^ inch. 

Shape sleeve 21—17—14—8—4—7—12—11—16—20. 

This completes sleeve for this blouse. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



175 




Diagram 88 



174 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE A KIMONO SLEEVE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN. 

Diagram 89 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 8/-J inches 

I lip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9'A — 7'/> inches 

Across Chest 15/ i inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8% inches 

Meek 14 inches Neck Height and to Waist. ...7/4 — 15/-J inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 1 /^ — 17/A inches Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Lay back and front shoulders together, allowing between 16 — 17, /4 inch. 

Draw line from 18 through 17 to 10, 19 inches, length of sleeve to elbow. 

18 to 1 1 is 10 inches. Square over 11 to 7, 7 inches. 11 to 12 is 6 inches. 

Square points 7 — 12 down to 8 — 13. Connect 13 with 8. From 10 to 9 is 1 inch. 

Shape bottom as shown. 

At the underarm of waist on back part we gain 1 inch, from 14 to 7. 5 to 6. 

At the underarm of waist on front part we lose % inch, from original line to 12, and 21 to 22. 

Shape the underarm of waist at 12 — 7 round as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



175 




Diagram 89 






176 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



KIMONO WAIST WITH AN UNDER GORE WORKED FROM A 

BLOCK PATTERN 

Diagram 90 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 8J4 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9 l /z — 7y 2 inches 

Across Chest 15J4 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8J4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height of Waist 7>4 — 15}4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 — 17 inches Length of Shoulder 5H inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Take your plain shirtwaist pattern, lay the two shoulders together and mark the whole blouse as 
diagram shows. 

Cut back, neck and front out of pattern. 

Bring point F exactly on H and break your pattern to get middle line G — T ; open the pattern 

again, and drawn line G — T as diagram shows. 

Measure on line G S, which is 18 inches, which is the length of sleeve to elbow. 

Square over S to J and S to P, which is 8 inches. 

From S to T is 1 inch. 

Shape from J through T to P, as diagram shows. 

From G to I is 7^4 inches. 

Square over to L and N, which is 6 l /i inches on each side. 

Now connect M with L, L with J, R with N, and N with P. 

You will see the dotted line is our original pattern. 

The amount we lose from L to 1 and N to 2 we allow between B and C, which is iy 2 inches. 

Then take the center of B C, which gives us point E. 

Square on point E down to D, 8^ inches, underarm blouse, the same as L to M and N to R. 

Now square on point A, which is 10^ inches, underarm sleeve, the same distance as N to P 

and L to J. 
Now connect the underarm to the body by bringing V to Y, X to K, U to Q and W to O. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



177 




Diagram 90 



I 7 8 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



MANISH SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. 

Diagram 91 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A to B. A to 7 is 4^ inches, Y& of bust measure. 7 to 17 is *4 of bust measure, 9 
inches. 17 to B is }4 of bust measure, \- inches. B to 28 is 3 inches. These 3 inches are 
taken off the length for the cuff. 

Square all given points. A to C is 14 inches, 4 inches less than l / 2 of bust measure. Square down 
C to D. Complete box for sleeve. 

28 to 23 is x /i inch; 22 to 21 is Yi inch; 14 to 15 is 1 inch; 16 to 17 is 1 inch: 24 to 25 is 1 inch. 
Draw line from A to 5 and 5 to C. C to 4 is 3}4 inches; A to 3 is 3]A inches; 1 to 2 is 1^4 
inches. Shape sleeve as shown. 

To make opening in sleeve, from 23 to 27 is '\ l / 2 inches. Square up to 27, 5y' 2 inches to 20. 
The piece set on over opening, is V/z inches wide, as shown, from 27 to 26, 20 to 19 and up 
to 18. 



For cuff, draw line 11 to 13, 9 inches. Take center at 12, square up to 9, 6 inches. 8 and 10 
is '_. the distance of 12 — 9, 
sleeve to fit cuff at 13 to 11 



is l A the distance of 12 — 9, which is break line for turn back cuff. From 22 to 23 gather 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



179 



, 1 




Diagram 91 



!80 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMZN. 



HOW TO MAKE SHAWL COLLAR AND LAPEL. 

Diagram 92 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Measure from the deepest point of neck, 22 to 23, 1 inch. 
Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 
32 to 21 is 2^4 inches, % inch more than back neck measure. 
Square over on line 24 — 26, 1% inches to 25, standing band, and over to 35. 
35 to 36 is l / 2 inch allowed for spring. 
Shape back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. 
Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar. 
To trace out lapel, break on line 26, 24, turn paper under, and trace out the shape of lapel, which 
will be reversed on opposite side. 

HOW TO MAKE NOTCH COLLAR. 

Diagram 93 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in shawl collar with the exception from 19 to 18, draw line 

which gives the notch. 
Shape as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



181 




Diagram 92 



Diagram 95 



182 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE A LAY-DOWN COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN 

WITHOUT STAND BAND. 

Diagram 94 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Lay hack and front shoulders together at [joints 4 — 7. Make collar any desired width, in Litis 
case 4 inches. 

At hack from 2 to 1 allow Va > lun I0r spring. 

Shape collar as shown from .i — 1 — 2 — 5 to 6. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN I83 




Diagram "4 



184 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE A SAILOR COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN 

WITHOUT STAND BAND. 



DIAGRAM95 J .,_ . ; - ^ 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



Lay front and back shoulders together at points 4 — 7. Make collar any desired length, in this 
case from neck to 6 is 6 inches. 

Draw straight line from 6 to 4. 

From 2 to 1 is J4 mcn allowed for spring. Collar is 7 inches deep in back. 

Draw line frorr 3 to 1. Square over on this line 7 inches to 5. Shape collar from 6 — 5 a s 
shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



185 




Diagram 95 



Shirts 



[88 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

HIPLESS OR HOBBLE SKIRTS IN ONE PIECE. 

Diagram 96 

MEASURES. 

W' a i st 25 inches Length Side 43^ inches 

Hip 41 inches Length Back 45 inches 

Length Front 42 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
Draw line A B. 
A to C is 4 inches. 
Square over A to F and C to E 12 )/ 2 inches l / 2 of waist measure plus 5 inches, in this case 

17^2 inches. 
These 5 inches are taken out between the darts at waist line. 
We allow these 5 inches in order to have less sweep at the bottom of skirt. 
Connect F with E. 
C to K is ^4 inch. 
F to I is Yi inch. 
Draw waist line from K to I. 

Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. 
Measure hip from D G 20>2 inches, l / 2 of hip measure. 
Draw back line from I through G to H 45 inches. 
Front length from K to B, 42 inches. 
Side length, A2>]/ 2 inches, and shape bottom as shown. 
This completes the box for hipless skirts. 

From front line u\\ hip line measure from D to T 3)/, inches, T to S 6 l / 2 inches; S to R 6)/ 2 

inches. 
At waist line K to X is 3 inches, X to W is 6 inches, and W to Y is 6 inches. 

Measure from X to P y\ inch, X to O }4 inch. X to Y is 5 inches. 

Shape dart from V to P and V to O. 

Measure from W to N 1J4 inches and W to M P4 inches. 

Shape dart from S to X and S to M. 

Measure from Y to L 1 inch, Y to J 1 inch. 

Y to U is 5y 2 inches. 

Shape dart through U to L and U to J. 

This completes the hipless skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 189 




Diagram 96 



190 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



EMPIRE SKIRT. 

I (IAGRAM97 

MEASURES. 

Waisl 25 inches Length Fronl 43 inches 

lliji 41 inches Length Hack 47 inches 

Length Side 45'/> inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

I )ravv line A, B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over from A to F and C to E, 12' _. inches, ' _> of waisl measure plus 5 inches, in this 

case 17' 2 inches. These 5 inches are taken out between darts at waist line. 
Connect F with E. 
C to K is ' j inch. 
F to 1 is -j4 of an inch. 
Draw waist line K; I. 

Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. 
.Measure hip, I), G, which is 20'A inches, }4 of hip measure. 
To make skirt Empire, measure up from the natural waist line, K, I, 2 inches, which gives US 

points Z and O. 
Connect Z to Q. 

Now draw a line from O through I. G to H, 47 inches, length of skirt in back. 
The front length from Z to li, 44 inches. 
Side length, 45JA inches. 
This completes the box of Empire Skirt. 
From front D to T on hip is 3'. _i inches. 
T to S is 6V> inches. 
S to R is (>' j inches. 

( )n natural waist line K to X is 3 inches, X to W is 6 inches, and VV to Y is 6 inches. 
Draw a line from T through X to Empire waist line. 
At natural waist line measure from X to I' ' 4 inch and X to ( ) '4 inch. 
\t lop of waist line measure from 8 to 9 Y& inch and from 8 to 7, ' s inch, and shape dart as 

shown. 
I >raw a line from S through W to Empire waist line. 
From W measure -}i inch to X and from W ■>; inch to M. 

At top of waist line measure from 5 to 6, is % inch, and from 5 to 4, is-\s inch. 
Shape dart as shown. 

Draw a line from R through Y to Empire waist line. 
Measure from Y to I. ? s inch and from Y to ] ■'"?, inch. 
At top of waist line measure from 2 to 3, yi inch and 2 to I, is }4 inch. 
Y to U is 5 inches. 
Shape dart as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



191 




Diagram 97 



192 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOME N. 

HOBBLE SKIRT WITH SIDE PLEAT 

Diagram 98 
MEASURES. 



Waist 
Hip .. 



2 5 in ches Front, length 40 inches 

4i inches Right, length 42 inches 

Back, length 43 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS 



Follow same instruction as given in diagram 99, Page 194, with exception, at bottom 
9 is the center of B H. Draw line from W. to 9. To form inverted pleat in the side, measure 
from 9 up to 3-15 inches, from 3 over to 4-5-2-1-li inches to each point. At bottom, measure 
from 9 over to 10-11-8-7-2 inches to each point. This completes skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. l 



93 




Diagram <?8 



194 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOBBLE SKIRT 

Diagram 99 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Front, length 40 inches 

Hip 41 inches Right. length 42 inches 

Back, length 43 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw a line A — B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over. 

A to F and C to E is \2 l / 2 inches, y'2 of waist measure plus 5 inches, in this case 17^2 inche.v 

These 5 inches are taken out between the dart at waist line. We allow these 5 inches in ordci 

to have less sweep at the Dottom of skirt. 
Connect F with E. 
G to K is ]/ 2 inch. 
F to I is 24 inch. 
Draw waist line K to I. 

Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line D — G. 
Measure hip from D — G, 20^ inches. l / 2 of hip measure. 41 inches. 
At front line hip, from D to F is 4 inches, B to 2 is 6 inches at bottom. 
Draw line from 2 through T to x. X to P is l / 2 inch and x tn O is l / 2 inch. 
Shape dart as shown. 

At back on hip, G to R is 3 inches at bottom, 3to 1 is A l / 2 inches. 3 to H is 5 inches. 
Square over 3 to 1, draw line from 1 through R to Y. 
Y to L is % inch. Y to J is Y 4 inch. 
Shape as shown. 

Take the center of R and T on hip. which gives us point S. 
Take the center of L — O at waist line, which gives us point W. 
Draw line from S to W. W to N is H4 inches. W to M is H 4 inches. 
Measure up from bottom skirt to O. 
12 inches from 2 to Z. 
12 inch cut through the side panel as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



19"! 




Diagram 99 



i 9 6 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMSN. 

PANTALOON SKIRT. 

Diagram 100 

MEASURES. 

\\" a i s t 25 inches Length Front 42 inches 

Hip 41 inches Length Side 43jA inches 

Length Back 45 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over A to F and C to E 12} _> inches, x /i of waist measure phis 5 inches, in this case 17>j 

inches. 
These 5 inches are taken out at the waist line, between the dart and at center back. 
Connect F with E. 
C to K is y 2 inch. 
F to I is % inch. 
Draw waist line K to I. 

is l /2 the distance between K — I. 
From P to W is Yi inch. 

Draw new waist line from K through W to 1. 

.Measure down from new waist line K, W, 1. 6 inches to dotted line D G. 

D G is 20)4 inches, >4 of hip measure. 

Draw back line from I through G to H, 45 inches. 

Side length, 43j/> inches. 

Front length, 42 inches. 

Shape bottom as shown. This completes box. 

At front, from K down to 14 is 14J/2 inches. 

Square over from 14, 6>4 inches to 11. 

14 to 12 is lYi inches. 

At bottom, from B to 10 is 6' _> inches. 

Shape top as shown. 

At bottom, 7 is JA the distance between I'. II. 

Draw line from 7 up to W. 

At waist line, measure from W down to S, I6J/2 inches for pleat. 

W to N is 2]A inches. 

\V to M is 2 T /_> inches. 

1 Tom S to LL 4 inches. 
From S to T, 4 inches. 

At bottom, 7 to 8 is 6 inches. 

7 to 6 is 6 inches, draw line. 

Shape top gores as shown. 

At center back on waist line I to X is 34 inch. 

At hip to G to Z is ^ inch. 

From I measure down to 3, 18' _■ inches. 

Square over from 3 to 1, 8 inches. 

3 to 2 is 2JA inches. 

At bottom From H to 4 is 8 inches, draw line. 

Shape top as shown. 

The front and back panels are cut separate from the skirt. 

K to O is 3 inches. 
At bottom, B to 9 is 6 inches 
At back. X to Y is 3 inches. 
At bottom. H to 5 is 6 inches. Shape as shown. 
Center front and back panels are cut on the fold of material. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



197 




Diagram 100 



198 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



CIRCULAR SKIRT. 

Diagram 101 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 42 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 43 l / 2 inches 

Length Back 45 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw a line A B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over from A to F and C to E is S'/i inches. 

Connect F with E. 

C to K is 1 inch. 

F to I is 3 inches. 

Dr«\v straight line connecting K with I. 

Take the center of I EC, which gives us point Q. 

Q to R is W A inches. 

Draw new waist line from K through R to I. 

-Measure down from new waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. 

Measure hip D to G, which is 21 inches, )A of hip measure. 

Draw a line from I through G to H 45 inches, the length of skirt in back. 

The front length from K to B is 42 inches. 

Side length, 43 l / 2 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. 

To make inverted pleat at the center back, go out at waist line from I to N 2 inches and 2 inches 

from X to M. 
At the bottom go out from H to L 5 inches and L to J 5 inches. 
To form inverted pleat, take up on line I H and meet at center back line M J. 
This completes the circular skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



199 




Diagram 101 



200 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



THREE-GORE SKIRT. 

Diagram 102 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 42 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 43^> inches 

Length Back 45 inches 

Draw line A B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over A to F and C to E 12^ inches, which is J^ of waist measure plus \ l /> inches, in 
this case 14 inches. 

Connect F with E. 

From C to K is 1 inch. 

F to I is 1J/2 inches. 

Draw a straight line from K to I. 

Take the center of K and I, from this point 20 measure down J, j inch to R. 

Shape new waist line from K through R to I. 

Measure down from new waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. 

Measure D G, which is 21 inches, ]A of hip measure. 

Draw a line from I through G to H, 45 inches, length of skirt in back. 

Front length from K to B is 42 inches. 

Side length, 43^4 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. 

This completes the box for a three gore skirt. 

Fi one gore at hip D to T is 3 inches. 

At the bottom B to V is 7 inches. 

Draw a line from V through T to L. 

Measure from L to O J4 of an inch and L to P ;4 of an inch. 

Shape gore from P to T and O to T. 

S is about Yi the distance from T to G. 

R to S is 4 inches. 

Measure from R to X 1 inch and R to M 1 inch. 

Shape dart from N to S and M to S. 

This completes the three gore skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



201 




Diagram 102 



202 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



FIVE-GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT. 

Diagram 103 

MEASURES. 

Waist -Measure 24 inches Hip Measure.... ....42 inches 

Length 42 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1 Follow the five-sore skirt exactly as described in the following lesson, diagram, 104, page 

201*.. 
2. C to U is '4 hip measure, 10' _. inches. 

C to L is 16 inches, or 3. 4 of 21 inches, l / 2 of hip measure plus % inch. 

Flounce from PI to I in back is 16 inches, and in front, from L! to K, 8 inches. Using 

L as a pivot, sweep top of flounce K — R. R to K measures the same as K to J. 
Using Q as a pivot, sweep curve B — 1. I is straight through R to O. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



20} 




Diagram 103 



204 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



FIVE GORE SKIRT. 

Diagram 104 

MEASURES. 

Waist 2? inches Length Front 43 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 45}/ inches 

Length Back 47 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions for hox as given for three gore skirt in diagram 102, page 10Q with the 
exception of an extra gore. This gore is obtained by taking ¥> the distance from \ to 
11, which gives us point U. 

Take } •_> the distance from T to G on hip, which gives us point S. 

Now draw a line from U through S to R. 

Measure from R to N 1 inch. 

Measure from R to M 1 inch, and shape gore from N to S and M to S as diagram shows. 

This completes the five gored skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



20 : 




Diagram 104 



206 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

SEVEN GORE SKIRT. 

Diagram 105 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 42 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 43j/$ inches 

Length Back 45 inches 

Draw line A B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over from A to F and C to E. \2y 2 inches, y 2 of waist measure plus 4 inches, in this 
case 16J/2 inches. These 4 inches are taken out between the darts as at top of waist line. 

Connect F with E. 

C to K is 1 inch. 

V to I is lJ/2 inches. 

Draw straight line from K to I. 

Take the center of K, I, go down l / 2 inch and draw new waist line. 

Measure down from new waist line 6 inches to dotted line D to G. 

Measure hip, D to G, which is 21 inches, ]/ 2 of hip measure. 

Draw line from I through G to H, 45 inches, the length of skirt in back. 

Front length from K to B is 42 inches. 

Side length, 43 l / 2 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. 

This completes the box for a seven gore foundation. 

All skirts with more than seven gores require the same foundation. 

The front gore at hip, D to T, is 3 inches. 

B to 3 at bottom is 5 inches. Draw a line from 3 through T to waist line. 

From this line H measure inch to O and y s inch to P, and shape gore from P to T, and O to T. 

Now take the distance from T to G and divide equally into 3 gores of 6 inches each, which gives 
us points S and R. 

At bottom take the distance from 3 to H and divide equally into 3 gores of 12 inches each, which 
gives us points 1 and 2. 

Draw a line from 2 through S to waist line. 

From this line measure 1 inch to N and 1 inch to M, and shape gore from X to S and M to S. 

From 1 draw a line through R to waist line. From this line measure -% inch to L and ->£ inch 
to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. 

This completes the seven gore skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 207 




Diagram 105 



2 is THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



NINE GORE SKIRT. 

Diagram 106 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 43 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 45y 2 inches 

Length Back 47 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20^ 

The front gore at hip, D to T, is 2->^ inches. 

I! to 4 at bottom is 6 inches. 

Draw a line from 4 through T to waist line. From this line measure )/\ inch to P and l /\ inch 
to O, and shape gore from P to T and O to T. 

Take the distance from T to G and divide equally into 4 gores of Ay 2 inches each, which gives 
us points S. R and O. 

At bottom take the same distance from 4 to H and divide equally into 4 gores of 6-)4 inches each, 
which gives us points 3, 2 and 1. 

Draw a line from 3 through S to waist line. From this line measure -\s inch to N and ^ inch 
to M, and shape gore from N to S and M to S. 

Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. 

From this line measure y% inch to L and -\s inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. 

Draw a line from 1 through Q to waist line. From this line measure ' _> inch to J, ' _> inch to 
1, and shape gore from J to and I to Q. 

This completes the nine gore skirt. 



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209 




Diagram 106 



210 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE. 

Diagram 107 

MEASURES. 

Waist 34 inches Length Front 42 inches 

Hip 48 inches Length Side A$ l / 2 inches 

Length Back 45 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw a line A B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over from A to F and C to E, 17 inches, y 2 of waist measure plus 3 inches ; in this 

case 20 inches. These 3 inches are taken out between the darts at waist line. 
Connect F with E. 
Draw a straight line from C to F. 

Take the center from C F, go down ]/ 2 inch and draw a new waist line. 
Measure down from new waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. 
Measure hip, D, G, which is 24 inches, y 2 of hip measure. 
Draw a line from F through G to H, 45 inches, the length of skirt in back. 
Side length, 43J/2 inches. 
Front length from C to B is 42 inches. 
Shape bottom as diagram shows. 

Measure down from C to 5 — 14 inches, which is 1-3 length of skirt, 42 inches. 
Measure from 5 to 6, % of an inch. 
Draw a new front line from B through 6 to X, the distance from C to the front line is y$ of an 

inch in this case, and measure up the same distance to X. 
Draw a straight line X to V, which is eased in over the fullest part of the stomach. 
The front gore at hip, D to Y, is Zy 2 inches. 
B to 5 at bottom is 6 inches. 
Draw a line from 5 through to Y to waist line ; from this line measure y of an inch to V and y 

of an inch to U, and shape gore from V to Y and U to Y. 
Take the distance from Y to G and divide equally into 5 gores, 4 inches each, which gives us 

points T, S, R and 0. 
At the bottom take the distance from 5 to H, a n d divide equally into 5 gores of 8 inches each, 

give us points 4, 3, 2 and 1. 
Draw a line from 4 through T to waist line. F r om this line measure y 2 of an inch to P and Yz 

of an inch to O, and shape gore from P t° T and O to T. 
Draw a line from 3 through S to waist line, fro m this line measure l / 2 of an inch to N and l / 2 of 

an inch to M, and shape gore from N t° S and M to S. 
Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. 
From this line measure l / 2 inch to L and J / 2 inch to K. 
Shape gore from L to R and K to R. 
Draw line from 1 through to waist line. 
From this line measure Y% of an inch to T and H of an inch to I. and shape gore from T to Q 

and I to Q. 
This completes the 11 gore skirt, for a figure with a high stomach. 



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211 




Diagram 107 



212 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM.XN. 

ELEVEN GORE FLARE. 

Diagram 108 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 4.1 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 45^ inches 

Length Back 47 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20 D 

Front gore at hip, D to Y, 3 inches. 

B to 15 is 6 inches. 

Draw a line from 15 through Y to waist line, from this line go out l /\ inch to V and l /\ inch to 
U, and shape gore from V to Y and U to Y. 

Take the distance from Y to G ard divide equally into 5 gores of 3y 2 inches each, which gives 
us points T, S, R and Q. 

At bottom take the distance from 15 to I, and divide equally into 5 gores, which gives us points 
12, 9, 6 and 3. 

Draw a line from 12 through T to waist line. From this line measure 5/£ inch to P and % inch 
to O, and shape gores from P to T and O to T. 

Draw a line from 9 through S to waist line. 

From this line measure % inch to N and §4 inch to M, and shape gore from N to S and from 
M to S. 

Draw a line from 6 through R to waist line, from this line measure ]/ 2 inch to L, l / 2 inch to K, 
and shape gore from L to R and K to R. 

Draw a line from 3 through Q to waist line, from this line measure y& inch to J and fg inch to 
I, and shape gore from J to Q and I to Q. 

To add the flare on this skirt go down from waist line 12 inches on each gore. At the bottom 
front gore go out 1 inch from 15 io 14. 

The second gore 2 inches from 15 to 16, and 12 to 11. 

The third gore 2 inches from 12 to 13, and 9 to 8. 

The fourth gore 2 inches from 9 to 10 and 5 to 5. 

Fifth gore 2 inches from 6 to 7, and 3 to 2. 

Sixth gore 2 inches from 3 to 4, and from 1 to H. 5 inches for the flare down center. 

Trace out gores 1, 2 and 3, No. 1 from U to Y to 16, across bottom to 11, up to T and P, over 
to U at waist line. 



No. 2 from M to S, 10 across bottom to 5 up tc R. L, and over to M to waist line. 

No. 3 from I Q 4 over bottom to H, up to G and I, go in J4 inch to I at the center back lin 
and over to waist line to I. 

The ether three remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched one after the other. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 213 




Diagram I08 



214 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

THIRTEEN GORE PLEATED SKIRT 

Diagram 109 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 43 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 45*4 inches 

Length Back 45 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20^) 

Front gore at hip, D to Z, is 3 inches. 

L' to 17 at bottom is 6 inches. 

Draw a line from 17 through Z to waist line. From this line measure 34 inch to X and J4 » lcl1 

to W, and shape gore from X to Z and W to Z. Now take the distance from Z to G 

and divide equally into 6 gores of 2^ inches each, which gives us points Y. T, S, R 

and Q. 
At the bottom take the distance from 7 to Fl and divide equally into 6 gores 7^4 inches each, 

which gives us points 14, 11, 8, 5 and 2. Now draw a line from 14 through Y to waist line. 
From this line measure ji of an inch to V and % of an inch to U, and shape gore from V 

to Y and U to Y. 
Draw a line from 11 through T to waist line; from this line measure l /> inch to P and j/> inch to 

O, and shape gore from P to T and O to T. 
Draw a line from 8 through S to waist line. From this line measure }i of an inch to X and $/% 

of an inch to M, and shape gore from X to S and M to S. 
Draw a line from 5 through R to waist line. From this line measure ^ of an inch to L and )fa 

of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. 
Draw a line from 2 through O to waist line. From this line measure ;4 inch to J and 34 inch 

to I, and shape gore from J to O and I to Q. 
To make pleats in skirt, measure down from waist line any depth desired, in this case 18 inches 

down on front gore and 1 inch higher on each gore to the back. 
To make the pleats in skirt, measure from the straight line 1 inch to 30 and 1 inch to 29. 
From straight line 1 inch to 28 and 1 inch to 27. 
From straight line 1 inch to 26 and 1 inch to 25. 
From straight line 1 inch to 24 and 1 inch to 23. 
From straight line 1 inch to 22 and 1 inch to 21. 
From straight line 1 inch to 20 and 1 inch to 19. 
At the bottom of skirt measure 2 inches at the first gore from 17 to 16, second gore 2 inches from 

17 to 18 and 2 inches from 14 to 13. third gore 2 inches from 14 to 15 and 2 inches from 

11 to 10. fourth gore 2 inches from 11 to 12 and 2 inches from 8 to 7, fifth gore 2 inches 

from 8 to 9, 2 inches from 5 to 4, sixth gore 2 inches from 2 to 3. 
To trace out gores 1, 2 and 3. 
Xo. 1 from \Y to Z to straight line over to 30. down to 18, across bottom to 13, and up to 27. 

over to straight line up to Y and V, across waist line to W. 
Xo. 2 from O to T, down straight line, over to 26, down to 12, across the bottom to 7. up to 23 

to straight line, up to S, to X, over to waist line to O. 
Xo. 3 from K R to straight line over to 22, down to 6, across bottom to 1, up to 19. over to 

straight line, up to Q to J. across waist line to K. 
The other four remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched on after the other. 
This completes the 13 gore pleated skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



215 




Diagram toy 



216 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



FIFTEEN GORE SKIRT. 

Diagram 110 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 43 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 45>4 inches 

Length Back 47 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20() 

The front gore at hip, 3 to T, is 3 inches. 

B to 7 at bottom is 6 inches. 

Draw a line from 7 through 3 to waist line. 

From this line measure 34 0I an mcn to 2. l /\ of an inch to 1, and shape gore from 2 to 3 and 

1 to 3. Now take the distance from 3 to G, and divide equally into 7 gores of 2 l /i inches 

each, which gives us points Z, Y, T, S, R and Q. 
Take the distance at the bottom from 7 to H and divide equally into 7 gores of 5 inches each, 

which gives us points 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 and 1. 
Draw a line from 6 through Z to waist line. From this line measure }i of an inch to X, S/& of 

an inch to W, and shape gore from X to Z and from W to Z. 
Draw a line from 5 through T to waist line. 
From this line measure J /> inch to V and l / 2 inch to U, and shape gores from V to Y and U 

to Y. 
Draw a line from 4 through T to waist line. 
From this line measure j/2 inch to P and Vi inch to O. 
Shape gore from P to T and O to T. 
Draw a line from 3 through S to waist Iin*_ 

From this line measure Y% of an inch to N and yi of an inch to M. 
Shape gore from N to S and M to S. 
Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. From this line measure jHi of an inch to L and yi 

of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. 
Draw a line from 1 through Q to waist line. From this line measure '4 of an inch to J and l fy 

inch to I. 
Shape gore from J to Q and to I. 
This completes the 15 gore skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



217 




Diagram 1 10 



Riding Habits 
and 

Breeches 



220 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SAFETY RIDING SKIRT. 

Diagram 111 

MEASURES. 

I lip 42 inches Length 42 inches 

Waist 25 inches Side 43 inches 

I lack - 44 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Front part, draw line A — B, 41}S inches. 

Square over on line A — B to C 49 inches. 

A to 12 is 3j4 inches ; A to 11 is 5 inches; A to 10 is 5^4 inches ; A to 9 is 7 inches ; A to 8 is 8 
inches; A to 7 is 9y 2 inches; A to 9 is \A l / 2 inches; A to 5 is 29^ inches; A to 4 is 33 l / 2 
inches; A to 3 is 35}4 inches; A to 2 is 39 inches; A to 1 is 41^ inches; A to C is 49 
inches. 

Square downon all the given points. 

12 to 13 is y 2 inch ; 11 to 14 is 1% inches; 10 to 15 is 2 inches; 9 to 16 is 2 l / 2 inches; 8 to 17 is 2J4 
inches; 7 to 18 is 2^ inches; 5 to 31 is 7Y\ inches; 4 to 30 is 5^4 inches; 3 to 29 is 6% 
inches; to 35 is 19 inches. 2 to 34 is 16 inches; 1 to 28 is 1J4 inches; C to 27 is 25 inches; 
to D is 4134 inches. 

Connect B — D. D to 26 is 8 inches. 

B to 25 is 3 inches ; A to 22 is 5 Y / 2 inches ; A to 23 is 7% inches ; A to 24 is ll inches. 

Square over the given points. 

22 to 36 is 3% inches ; 23 to 20 is 7j/> inches. 

At waist line, from 14 to 15 is 1 inch for dart. 

Draw waist line from 13 through all points to 6. 

Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line for hip. Measure dotted line from 21 
to 19, 21 inches, y 2 of hip measure. 

Make a buttonhole at. point 28; a loop at 29 ; a strap at point 31, 14 inches long, 1 inch wide. 

Between points 34 — 35 make a loop for foot to rest. 

Place pocket on left side front, any desired length or shape. The heavy line in pocket indicates 
the opening. 

Draw line from 13—14—15—16—17—18—6—19—31—30—29—28—27—26—25—24—21—13. 

This completes skirt shown in illustration. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



221 




Diagram 1 1 1 



121 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

BACK PART OF SKIRT. 

Diagram 1 11 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A- — B, 34 ; 4 inches. 

Square down over on line A — B 46 inches to C. 

A to 1 is 2j j inches. 

A to 37 is 53.-2 inches. 

A to 36 is 7% inches. 

A to 35 is 10 inches. 

A to 34 is 11 inches. 

A to 32 is 12% inches. 

A to 31 is 13% inches. 

A to 29 is 17 inches. 

A to 28 is 26% inches. 

A to 27 is 39% inches. 

A to C is 46 inches. 

Square over on these given points. 

1 to 2 is 4% inches. 

37 to 39 is 10% inches, to 38 is 15 inches, to 14 is 18% inches; 15 to 17 is 27^4 inches. 

36 to 4 is 14% inches, 35 to 5 is 9 inches, 34 to8 is 15 inches, 32 to 6 is 11% inches, 31 to 7 

is 10% inches, 29 to 30 is % inch, 28 to 23 is 24% inches, 27 to 24 is 22 inches, C to 25 is 
11% inches, C to 26 is 4 inches, A to 10 is 16 inches, A to 11 is 18 inches, A to 12 is 19 
inches, A to 16 is 24% inches. A to 18 is 30% inches, A to B is 34% inches. 

Square down 18 to 20, 18 inches. 

Square down B to 19, 14 inches. 

From 11 to 13 is % inch, 12 to 15 % inch. 

Shape dart from 15 to 14, 13 to 14. 

Draw waist line from 16 — 15 — 13 to 10. Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line 
for hip. Measure dotted line, 17 — 19. 10% inches, % of hip measure. 

For other part of skirt shape waist line from 2 to 37. Measure down from waist to dotted line 
6 inches. For hip, measure dotted line 3 to 33, 10% inches, % of hip measure. Draw- 
straight line from 20 to 23. 

From 20 to 22 is 4 inches, 22 to 21 is 3% inches. 

Shape skirt from 37— 33— 30— 28— 26— 25— 24— 23— 21— 20— 19— 17— 16— 15— 13— 10— 
—8—7—5—6—4—3—2. 

At point 19 ease in % inch between notches. 

Place button at back of skirt 3 inches from 5. This completes the back part of skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



223 




Diagram 1 12 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



225 



SAFETY RIDING HABITS 








SHOWING THE DIFFERENT POSITIONS 



226 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



RIDING HABIT (SIDE SADDLE). 
FRONT PART. 

Diagram 113 

MEASURES. 
Waist 25 inches Hips .43 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw lines 1 — 3 and 1 — 2. 

1 to 4 is 7y 2 inches, 1 to 6 is 8 inches, 1 to 8 is \2V 2 inches. 

1 to 7 is 20 inches, 1 to 5 is 37 inches, 1 to 3 is 46J4 inches. 

Square points 4, 6, 8, 7 and 5 on line 1 — 3. 

4 to 9 is 2y 2 inches, 6 to 10 is 7y 2 inches, 6 to 13 is 8>4 inches. 

8 to 11 is 7y 2 inches, 7 to 12 is 654 inches. 5 to 31 is 47 inches. 

Connect 3 with 31, 31 — 32, 17 inches. 

Square down from 32 to 33, 3 J / 2 inches. 

Draft bottom line from 3 to 23, to 31. 

1 to 15 is 12 inches, 1 to 16 is 12J4 inches, 1 to 19 is 2\y 2 inches. 

1 to 20 is 25 inches, 1 to 21 is 30J4 inches. 1 to 2 is 34% inches. 
Now square points 15, 16, 19, 21 and 2 on line 1 — 2. 

15 to 14 is 7Y\ inches, 16 to 17 is 4 inches. 19 to 18 is l2 l / 2 inches. 21 to 22 is 3y 2 inches. 

2 to 25 is BV+ inches, 2 to 26 is 6% inches. 2 to 30 is 9 inches. 2 to 29 is \0y 2 inches. 
Now square points 25. 26, 30 and 29 on line 2 — 29. 

25 to 24 is 254 inches, 26 to 27 is D4 inches, 30 to 23 is 6 l / 2 inches, 29 to 28 is 5y 2 inches. 

Now draft 3—5—7—9—10—11—13—14—18 and back, 17—20—22—23—24—27—28—30 down 

to 31. 
11 to 12 is pocket. This finishes our front part. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



227 




Tront 



part 



H) 



,32 



Diagram 1 13 



228 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMm 



RIDING HABIT (SIDE SADDLE). 
BACK PART. 

Diagram 114 
INSTRUCTIONS. 



For back part draw lines A — C and A — B. 

A to F is 9 inches, A to E is 15^ inches, A to D is 25% inches, A to C is 48 inches. 

Square points F, E, D and C on line A — C. 

F to N is 15y 2 inches, F to Q is 25 inches, E to I is 10 inches. 

D to R is 35% inches, D to S is 36% inches, D to U is 49 l / 2 inches. 

C to W is 44J/ 2 inches, C to V is 45^ inches. 

Square point W down to X 6% inches. 

Draft bottom line X, Y, C. 

Now connect X— V— U— T, X— T is 38 inches. 

Draft T— S— Y. 

A to G is 3 inches, A to K is 6% inches, A to L is 10J4 inches. 

A to P is 18% inches, A to B is 22% inches. 

Square points G, K, L and P on line A — B. 

G to H is 7 inches, K to J is 5 inches, L to M is 1% inches, P — O is % inch. 

Now draft C— D— F— H— I— J— M— N— O— B— Q— R down to Y. 

If the width of the material allows to put the back part in one piece, leave out dotted line. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTEk FOR WOMEN 229 




Diagram 114 



230 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT 

Dl \'.K AM 1 1 5 

MEASURES. 

Waist measure 25 inches Length 40 inches 

I lip measure- 44 inches Rise 12 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line \— I'.. 

A to C is '4 hip measure, 11 inches. 

A in 1) is waist measure, 2;> mches. 

1 1 in I', is full length, 40 inches. 

Use A as a pivot and sweep I' to 1. and i> inches below (hip) point F. do same to Al. 

Use C as a pivot and sweep from 1' in I and from F to S. 

I) to I'". is waist measure plus 3 inches; namely, 15' _> inches. The .i inches over are taken 
out, 1 inch each at the darts 1 — S. 9 — 10 and 11 — 12. Darts must be equally apart from 
F to 13, and are 1 inch above the hip line. 

2. Draw line C througll E to G, giving point 13. 13 is now exactly the hip measure from F. 
This diagram shows two inverted plaits; one in front and the other in hack. .Make plaits 

2 inches on top I) — K — 1. and <> inches at bottom B — P — ( ). as dotted line shows; the 
same in back. 

3. I. to X is Rise measure 12 inches; same with J to T in back: from T to I' is 3 ' s inches. 

'/$ waist measure. I' to V is (>' 4 inches, ' 4 waist measure: X to \Y is 7 inches. Con- 
nect J — S — T — V and \Y. 

X to Q is 4' 4 inches. 1/6 of waist measure; ( ) to K is 6 inches. Connect L — M — Q to R. 
The sweep at bottom must be taken 40 inches all around from waist line, allowing 1 inch 
more in back. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



231 



®A 




Diagram 115 



232 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

RIDING BREECHES. 

Diagram 1 10 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches knee 16 inches 

Hip 42 inches Small of Knee 14 inches 

Rise 11-M inches Calf \4 s /> inches 

Inseam 30 inches Angle 10 inches 

FOREPART. 

From A square out and down. 

A to C is 11 ->4 inches, rise measure. 

C to E is Yi of inseam less 1 inch, 14 inches. 

E to K is 2 inches, small of knee. 

K to F is 4 inches for calf. 

C to B is full insteam, 30 inches. 

C to P is 1/3 of % hip. lOj/2 inches, in this case 3y 2 inches. This point changes l /g more or 

less, according to larger or smaller sizes. 
Square over all given points. 
C to D is ]4 of hip, 10^4 inches. 

Square up point D to S and down to M. This completes the box. 
On hip, D to V is 3y> inch, 1/3 of hip. This point changes l /% more or less, according to 

larger or smaller sizes. 
\V is ) .. the distance of V D. 
Cj is y 2 the distance of W D. 
Draw line from O to S, which locates point T. 
Measure over from S to 28, '4 of waist measure plus \V 2 inches. This \y 2 inches are taken out 

in the dart between 13 — 15. 
S to R is 1 inch. 

Draw line from R through 28 to 17. 
17 is 1 inch from point A. 

Raise waist line from R to S, 28 to 20, \ l / 2 inches. 
Shape dart from 25 to 15—14—24—13—14. 
C to H is Y\ inch. 
I to 26 is l / 2 inch ; L to 27 is 1 inch ; 8 to 7 is -)4 inch ; AI to 6 is 2 inches ; 26 to I is 7 inches ; 

27 to X is 6"4 inches ; 7 to Z is 6y 2 inches ; 6 to 1 is 6% inches. 
Shape forepart from 20— 28— P— H— I— X— Z— 1. 
At top. from S — R — T — V — 26 — 27 — 7 — 6. This completes the forepart. 

BACK PART. 

Draw line from I' through T and up. Place square on an angle to 17. 

Draw line from 16 to 17, 8^2 inches, 2y 2 inches more than % of waist measure. 

These 2y 2 inches are taken out between 19 — 20. 

Raise from 17 to 18, 16 to 29, V/ 2 inches, and shape dart from 23—20—21—22—19—21. 

V to \V is 2 inches, J to Y is r 4 inch. C to 12 is 2 inches. 

Measure 26 to 1, 7 inches. Place the 7 inches on 26. Measure over to 10, 16 inches knee meas- 
ure. 

Measure from 27 to X 6 inches, and place the 6 inches on 27. Measure over to 9, 14 inches, 
small of knee. 

Measure 7 to Z 6Y 2 inches. Place the 6Y> inches on 7, and measure over to O \AY 2 inches for 
calf. 

From 6 to 1 is 5 J 4 inches. Place the 5% inches are taken out between 2 and 3. 

more than ankle measure. These 2 inches on 6. Measure over to N, 12 inches. 2 inches 

Point 4 is \y 2 inches below calf. Shape as shown. 

Shape back part from 18— 17— 12— 10— 9— O—N. 

At top. from 29— 16— T— W— Y— 27, 

For under lap on back part 9 to 8. ^X' to 5 is 1 ' _■ inches. This completes diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



233 




Diagram 1 16 



234 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS 
CHILDREN 



Sizes 


2 


4 


6 


8 10 


12 


14 


16 


18 


Bust 


22/ 


24/ 


26/ 


28/ 


30/ 


32/ 


35 


37 


39 


Waist 


20/ 


2iy 1 


24i4 


26/ 


28/ 


30J4 


23 


24 


25 


Hip 


2b 


28 


30 


32 


34 


36 


38 


40 


42 


Across Chest 


10 / 


11 


ny 2 


12 


12/ 


13 


14 


14/ 


15 


Neck 


11/ 


12 


i2y 2 


13 


13;/, 


14 


1354 


14 


14/ 


Length Waist in Front 












7 -16 


7 -16/ 


7/-17 


Shoulder Height Front 


7'A- 5/ 


7/- 5/ 


7H- 554 


8-6 


8/- 6/ 


8/- 6/ 


334- 6% 


9 - 7 


9/- 7/ 


Back 


Sy 4 - 33 4 

4M- 9/ 


6-4 


6/- 4/ 


6/- 4/ 


6H- 4% 


7 - S 


7/- 5/ 


73,4- 534 


8-6 


Nsck, Height and to Waist 


5 -10/ 


554-11 


S/-11 H 


534-12/ 


6 -1354 


554-14^ 


7 -15 


7/-15/ 


Across Back 


9y 2 


10 


10/ 


11 


11/, 


12 


13 


13/ 


14 


Under Arm 














8 


8/ 


8/ 


Shoulder 


4 


4/8 


4^4 


4V» 


4/ 


4X 


5/ 


5& 


5}4 


Length of Sleeve 


1 1 '/. 

i 1/4 


12 12% 


13/ 


14! 4 


15 


17/ 


18 


18/ 



Diagram 1 18 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



235 



PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS 
MISSES AND JUNIORS 



Sizes 


12 


13 


14 


IS 


16 


17 


18 


Bust 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


39 


Waist 


22 


22 y 2 


23 


23/ 


24 


24/ 


25 


Hip 


36 


37 


38 


39 


40 


41 


42 


Across Chest 


13V, 


1354 


14 


14/ 


14/ 


143/4 


15 


Neck 


13 


13% 


13/ 


1334 


14 


14/ 


14/ 


Length of Waist 


6/-15 


63/4-15/ 


7 -16 


7 -16/ 


7 -16/ 


7/-16?4 


7/-17 


















1-2 

Shoulder Height Front 


8/- 6/ 


8S/S- 6H 


8J4- 6 3 A 


8%- 6^ 


9 - 7 


9/- 7/ 


9/- 7/ 


















1-2 
Shoulder Height Back 


7 l A- 5/ 


7 a- 5.k s 


7/- 5/ 


7^- 5s/ 8 


73/- 5./ 


7%- 5% 


8-6 


Neck Height and to Waist 


6/-13/ 


6*6-14 


63/4-14/ 


6/8-1434 


7 -15 


7/-15/ 


7/-15/ 


Across Back 


12/ 


12-J4 


13 


13/ 


13/ 


133/ 4 


14 


Under Arm 


7/ 


7% 


8 


8/ 


8/ 


8/ 


8/ 


Shoulder 


5/ 


SH 


5/ 


S5/i 


53/ 


5^8 


6 


Length of Sleeve 


15/ 


16 


17/ 


173/ 


18 


18/ 


18/ 



Diagram 118 



236 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



FIRST LESSON. 
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER. 

Diagram 119 



MEASURES. 

Bust 28% inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26J/2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6y> — 4^2 inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height of Waist 5}4 — HH inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4-54 inches 

Sleeve 13^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B. A to C is 5)4 inches, neck height in back. A to E is lljkj inches, length of 
waist in back. E to F is 4 inches, first hip. F to B is 4 inches, second hip. Square over 
C — E — F — B on line A — B. C to D is j4 of bust, 14 ' 4 inches plus 3 inches allowed for 
seams, 17^4 inches. In a three piece coat we allow 3 inches for seams, and in a two 
piece coat we allow 2 inches for seams. 

1 ) to Q is y 2 inch allowed for breathing. D to G is "4 of bust measure, 4J4 inches. G to H 
is % of bust measure, 2y& inches. C to I is 5}4 inches, J4 of back measure. 

Square up and down D. Square up G — H — I on line C — D. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



237 



GL 



m 



D 



G 



$ ® 



# 



A 



® 



E 



^ 



B 



-® 



Diagram 119 



iiS THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



nches 
nches 
nchea 

nches 
nches 



SECOND LESSON. 
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER. 

Diagram 120 

MEASURES. 

Bust 28y 2 inches Shoulder Height Front 8 - 6 

Waist 26y 2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6'/ 2 \- l /> 

Mi]. 32 inches X'eck Height and to Waist ... .5J4 — U->- 4 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 

Xeck 13 inches Shoulder 4--K\ 

Sleeve 13 J^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

For box follow instructions as given in First Lesson. 

C to V is 2 inches ; C to P is 41-^ inches, second shoulder height back. 

V to O is 6y~2 inches, first shoulder height back. Square over A — P on line A — B. 

In squaring over P. point R is found crossing line I. I\ to S is V2 inch. 

Draft back neck. A — O. 

Draft back shoulder. O — S, +xj incites. 

At front. II to 3 is 6 inches, second shoulder height front. Square point 3. 

G to X is X inches, first shoulder height front. Square point X over \\\ inches to 17. X to 1 
is 2 inches. Square over 1 to 27. 

Draft neck curve. 17 to 27. 

Draw front shoulder from 17 to 4. same length as back shoulder, O — S. Z to 2 is 6 inches, \ z o: 
chest measure. 

Draft annscye from S — 2 to 4. In drafting annscye be careful not to go inside of line 1 — R, 
also not below bust line. It is very important to follow the draft of annscye very care- 
fully, as nothing can be added to an armscve that is too large, but when an annscye is too 
small it can be made larger. This completes the box. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



239 



17 X 




Diagram 120 



240 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER. 

Diagram 121 

MEASURES 

Bust 283/i inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26]/ 2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6]/ 2 — A]/ 2 inches 

Hip 32 inches Nfeck Height and to Waist ....5 l / 2 — 11^4 inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4^4 inches 

Sleeve 13^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

For box follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line, E to J is '4 inch; J to I\ is 3 inches; K to L is y' 2 inch; L to 4 is 4 inches; 4 to 
5 is -)4 inch. 

Take center of L — K. square down, where line crosses on first hip measure }4 inch to 10, '4 inch 

to 15. 

Take center of 5 — 6, square up to 28 and down. Where line crosses on first hip measure '4 inch 
to 12, 54 inch to 11. 

On hip. from F to Y is )/ 2 inch. 

At back neck, A to W is l /i inch. Draw back line from W — A — J — V to lb. From I to T, T 
to U and 16 to B is \ l / 2 inches for lap. Draw line from U to B as shown. 

From S at shoulder to 29 is 3 inches. 

Shape two back gores as shown. 

At front, on hip, 18 to 19 is \]/ 2 inches. Draw front line from — 19 to 17. 

To make garment double breasted, from front line measure 2 l / 2 inches to 26 — 20, the same dis- 
tance back for button stand. 

For lapel and collar, measure from deepest point of neck, 32 to 23, 1 inch. Draw straight line 
from bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 33 to 21 is 2^4 inches, l /\ inch more than 
back measure, W — O. 

Square on line 24 — 26, 1 inch to 25, for standing band of collar, and from 24 to 34 is 2) 2 inches, 
or any desired width. 34 to 22 is l / 2 inch allowed for spring. 

Shape back of collar from 25 — 24 — 21 — 22. Shape collar and lapel as shown. 

To trace colar, place separate paper under the collar and trace out the shape of collar. 

To trace lapel, break on line 26 — 24, turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which 
will be reserved on opposite side. 

This completes the diagram for reefer. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



241 




Diagram 121 



>4.' THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SEMI-FITTING COAT. EIGHT YEARS. 

Diagram 122" 

MEASURES. 

Bust 28^4 inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 2f> 1 j inches Shoulder Height Back 6'A — 4'/> inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height and to Waist ....5}4 — 1 1 -x+ inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4$4 inches 

Sleeve 13Y inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

E to J is Y inch : J to 6 is 5^4 inches; 6 to 7 is Ya inch ; I to T is 1 inch ; B to V is % inch. Take 
center of 6—7, square down where line crosses on first hip, measure % inch to 13, Y inch 
to 14. On second hip, where line crosses, measure Y inch to 8 and Yd, inch to 9. 

Shape back gore as shown. 

At front hip line, from 18 to 19 is 1 Y inches. Draw front line from 27 — Q — 19 to 11. 

To make garment double breasted, measure from front line 27 — 11, 2Yi inches to 26 — 12, same 
distance back for button stand. From 27 to 28 is J/4 inch taken out. 

To draft lay down collar, measure from deepest point of neck, 16 to 23. 1 inch. 

Draw line from 28 through 23 to 24. 27 to 22 is 2 r 4 inches. Ya more than back neck measure, 
O— K. I& 

Square over on line 28 — 24, 1 inch to 25. for stand band of collar, over to 20, 3 inches, or any 
desired width. 20 to 21 is J4 inch allowed for spring at back. 

Shape collar as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WO MEN. ' 243 

25 




Diagram 122 



244 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM5N. 



SEMI-FITTING COAT, FRENCH SEAMS, EIGHT YEARS 

Diagram 123 

MEASURES. 

Bust 2Sy 2 inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26j/j inches Shoulder Height Back 6y 2 — Ay 2 inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height to Waist 5]/ 2 — 11-34 inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4-*4 inches 

Sleeve \3y> inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line, E to M is y 2 inch ; M to 35 is 3 l / 2 inches ; 35 to 34 is }. 2 inch ; 34 to 9 is 4 inches ; 

9 to 8 is l / 2 inch. 

At shoulder, from O to T is 2^4 inches; T to S is 2 inches. 

At bust line, I to U is \-y\ inches. Take center of 34 — 35, square down, where line crosses on 
hip measure J4 inch to 12 and y inch to 37. 

Take center of 8 — 9. square up to 29 and down, where line crosses on hip measure )-\ inch to 

10 and y 2 inch to 11. 

Raise back neck from A to K % inch. Draw back K — A — M to 38. Shape back and gores as 
shown. 

At front, on hip, from 18 to 19 is IV 2 inches. 

Draw line 27— Q— 19— 13. 

\l bust line, from O to L is 3'j inches. Square L down. 
31 to 33 is )/ 2 inch taken out. 

At shoulder, 32 to 28 is 2-)4 inches, 28 to 30 is m inch taken out. This y inch add on point 
11 — +. Reshape armscye from 29 to 4. 

To make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in three 
gore coat. 

After pattern has been cut out lav pattern together at points 28 — 30 — L. Square shoulder over 
to 4. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTEk FOR WOMEN 



245 




Diagram 123 



246 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



EIGHT YEAR BOX COAT. 

Diagram 124 

MEASURES. 

Bust 28 1 /2 inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26y 2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 l / 2 V/> inches 

Hip 32 inches Xeck Height and to Waist ...iy 2 — 11-M inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Hack 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4-'' 4 inches 

Sleeve I3y 2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

Allow on bust 2 inches more for seams than the natural bust measure. 

E to AI is y 2 inch. 

Draw line from K — M to 10 full length. 1 to 2 l J is 1 ' _• inches. Square down 29, which gives 
point 7 on waist line. From 7 to 9 is 1 inch. 7 to 8 is 1 inch. 

Draw straight line from 29 through 8 to 12 over to 10. This completes back. 

For front, draw line from 29 — 9 — 11. From 18 to 19 is 1 ! ? inches. 

Draw front line from O — 19 to 13. 

1 o make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 
121, page 2<(0. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



247 




Diagram 124 



248 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

PLAIN COAT SLEEVE. 
SLEEVE CORRESPONDING TO EIGHT YEAR OLD. 

Diagram 125 

MEASURES. 

Half of Back' 5 Vi inches To Elbow 15'.. inches 

Full Length 22 */> inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B. 

A to M is y'i of back measure, h l / 2 inches. 

A to L is 15j/> inches to the elbow, and A to B is 22 x /> inches, full length sleeve. 

I is ]/> the distance between M and D. 

E to F is y% of bust measure. F to D is 1 inch less. 

Square over on points AI — I — D — L on line A — B. 

M to S is )/\ of bust measure plus 2 inches, allowance for seams. 

Square point S down to H. over to B. 

Point N is l /> the distance of S and AI. 

N to O is lYz inches. 

N to X is 1% inches. 

Q to P is / 2 inch. 

T to R is 1 inch. 

R to U is )/% of bust, 3}i inches. 

K is \>2 the distance between H and B. 

Square down point K, 1 inch to J. 

L to C is 1 inch. 

Draw line from H to E 5j/> inches for top sleeve, and H to V is iyi inches for uridersleeve. 

Shape the top sleeve from H through R to P through G — < > to I through C to E. 

Shape undersleeve from H through R to O to X to I" to V. This completes the sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



24Q 



®A 




250 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS. 
SLEEVE CORRESPONDING TO EIGHT YEAR OLD. 

Diagram 126 



MEASURES. 

Bust 281 i inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 2r>5_> inches Shoulder Height Back 6yi — 4^4 inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height and to Waist... .5^ — 11^4 inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder -M4 inches 

Sleeve 13 y 2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

I 'raw line A — B. 

A to L is '/$ of bust, which is 3J4 inches; L to D is % of bust, 7 inches; O to B is 7 inches, Y\ 
of bust. A to E is 3^ of bust measure less 2 inches. Square over points L — O and B. 
Square down points E to K. This completes the box of the sleeve. 

S is y 2 the distance between A and E ; S to N is 1 inch ; H to F is 1 inch ; and L to C is 1 inch ; 
G to P is y 2 inch ; O to D is >4 inch ; T is l /i the distance between K and B ; T to II is 
2 l /> inches. 

Shape sleeve from B — O — C — N through H to F — P — K and M to B. This completes sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 251 




j 5 j THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD 
KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT. 

Diagram 127 



MEASURES. 

Kust 28'/ 2 inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26ja inches Shoulder Height Back 6 [ /2 — \y 2 inches 

Hip 32 inches \ T eck Height and to Waist ....5 l / 2 — ll-Kt inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4*4 inches 

Sleeve \3y 2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in diagram 124, page 24^ For collar and double breasted 
coat, follow same instruction as given in diagram 129, page 25^. 

From 29 to 25 is 1 inch. Square over 2b, \ l /j inches to 24 and 36. Square up 25, 13 inches, 
length of sleeve, to 28. 28 to 30 and 33 is 1 inch. Draw line connecting 36 to 30 and 24 
to 33. Connect 36 with 7 and 24 with 7 for the under-gore of body. 

From 25 to 17 is iy 2 inches. 

Draw line from 24 — 17 to 21 for front sleeve. Square over on this line to 22. 

Allow from 21 to 20, 1 inch. Draw line from 20 — 17 — 24. 

From 20 to 22 is 4y 2 inches. 

Di«iw line from 24 through I to 23, 5y 2 inches. 

Draw line from 22 — 23 — 4 to 32. This completes the forepart. 

For back part, draw line from 36 through 17 to 16. Square over 16 to 14; 16 to 15 is 1 inch taken 
off; 15 to 14 is 4>4 inches. 

Draw line from 36 — H to 31, 5 inches. Shape as shown from 15 — 17 to 36 — 14 — 31 — S. 

S is l / 2 inch raise from R up to O. This completes the back part of sleeve. 

Shape the underarm front part of coat from 1 i — 9 to 24. 7 to 9 is 1 inch. 

Shape the back part of the underarm of coat from 12 — 8 to 36. 7 to 8 is 1 inch. 

Trace out the back part of coat and sleeve from 12 — 10 — K — O— S — 31 — 14 — 15 — 17 — 36 — S 
to 12. 

The front part of coat remains on the paper as shown in the dotted line. 

Trace the undersleeve and gore of body from 7 — 36 — 30 — 33 — 24 to 7, as shown on the side oi 
diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



252 



33 28 30 




Diagram 127 



_>54 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



EIGHT YEARS 
HOW TO MAKE A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN 

Diagram 12s 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Lay pattern together at underarm as dotted line shows. 

To place the new seams under the arm, measure from neck, 8 to 7, 5/ 2 inches, square over / 
to 2, %Yi inches, and from 6 to 4. 11 !/> inches. Draw straight line from 2 to 4. 2 to 3 
is 3 inches. Reshape armscye. 

To make garment double breasted measure out from front line 4 inches to 16, same distance 
back for buttons. 

To make collar, lay front and back shoulders together on point 9 — 1. Collar is cut without stand 
band. 

Draw straight line from 16 to 9. 

At back from 15 to 11 is 5 inches. 11 to 10 is Yi inch for spring. Shape collar from 16 — 1— 
10 for shawl collar. 

For sailor collar square over on back 12 — 15, 6 inches to 13. Shape as shown. 

For shovel collar 15 to 14 is 9yj inches. Shape from 1 to 14. This completes the coat. 



DRAFT SLEEVE. 

Diagram 129 , 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B. A to 9 is l / & of bust measure, 3^ inches. 9 to B is 14 inches, full lengtn of 
sleeve. 9 to 6 is 2J4 inches, % less for each inch at underarm of coat, 3 to 2. Square 
all given points. 

8 to C is 13 inches, 1 inch less than y' 2 of bust measure. 6 to 7. 5 to 4 is 1J4 inches. 
Draw line from A to 3 and C to 3. A to 11 and C to 10 is 3^4 inches. 1 is the center of A— C. 
Shape sleeve as shown. 

-7 is the underarm sleeve, joint to point at underarm coat. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



255 




O 
< 



00 
CM 
iH 

2 
< 

OS 

i 



256 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD 
RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS. 

Diagram 130 

MEASURES. 

Bust 28j/j inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8 inches 

Waist 26 l / 2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6J/2 — 4/4 inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height of Waist 5 l / 2 — 11M inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4*4 inches 

Sleeve 13/4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in diagram 124, page 242. This coat is cut without seams. 
For double breasted and lay down collor, follow the same instructions as given in diagram 
122, page 238. 

Draw straight line from 12 to 32. 13 is thee center of 12 — 32. Square over 13 to 11, 34 inch. 
Reshape shoulder from 12 — 11 — 32. 

At back, draw line from 29 to O. U is the center of O — 29. Square U over to T -)4 inch. 

Reshape shoulder from 28 — 29 — T — O. 

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD 
RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOUT SEAMS. 

Diagram 131 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in diagram 125, page 248. At undersleeve measure the dis- 
tance from Q to X. Place Q on 12 and X on 29. Ease between O — X l / 2 inch. At back, 
measure the distance from 29 to O, which is 7 inches. Place the 7 inches on point I to 7. 
Square over 7 to 6, 2 inches. Draw line up from I to 6. 4 is the center of 6 — I. Square 
4 to 5, Y /2 inch. 

Shape from I — 5 to 6. 

At front, measure the distance from 12 to 32, 8% inches. Place the 8J4 inches on point 1'. 
measure up to 9, 8J4 inches. Square over point 9 to 8, 2 inches. 

Draw straight line from P to 8. 3 is the center of 8 — P. Square over 3 — 2, j4 inch. 

Shape sleeve from P — 2 — 8. This sleeve is cut through at shoulder. 

Square point N up to 10, 3 inches. N to 11 is Y± inch. N to 1 is Y\ inch. 

At bottom, H to W is 2% inches. Draw line from W — 11 — 10 — 8 — 6 — 10 — 1 to W. This com- 
pletes sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ibl 




Diagram 130 



Diagram 131 



258 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM A 

BLOCK PATTERN. 

Diagram 1 32 
MEASURES. 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Lay front and back shoulders together as dotted line shows. 

17 to 9 is 4-4 inch. 16 to 10 is 1 inch. Draw line from 9 — 10 to 12. From 9 to 11 is 6^4 inches. 
Square 11 over to 6 — 7, 5 inches. 12 to 15 and 12 to 13 is Sy 2 inches. 12 to 14 is 1 inch. 

Draw line from 6 — IS — 7 to 13. Shape bottom from 13 — 1-1 — 15. The distance from 6 to 3 
and 2 to 7 is 3 inches, which is lost at the underarm of waist. This distance which is lost 
we gain by placing an under gore in the body and sleeve. 

Draw line from 7 to 8. 6 to 5, 6 inches. 

Take the center of 22 — 23. which is 19. Square this point up to 18, 6 inches, same distance from 
7 to 8 and 6 to 5. Square down 19 to 20, 13j^ inches, the same distance from 7 to 13 
and 6 to 15, length of sleeve. 20 to 24 and 21 is 1 inch. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



259 




Diagram 132 



260 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMZN. 



HOOD NO. 1, EIGHT- YEAR-OLD. 

Diagram 133 

MEASURES. 
Bust 28 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



Draw line E and B. 

E to D and E to F and F to B is always }4 of bust measure, 7 inches. Square points just given, 
which constitute box. 

Place jacket back and front together as dotted line shows, and draft neck curve E to C; C to A 
is front of jacket or cape. Now draft curve B through G to A, as shown; 1 /a, inch all 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



261 






Diagram 1 33 



262 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOOD NO. 2, EIGHT- YEAR-OLD. 

Diagram 134 

MEASURES. 
Bust 28 inches 

Top of this hood is same as No. 1, with exception of F to B being y & of bust, 3>4 inches. 

From F to P is 4 inches, and from 13 to I is 5/j inches; increase or decrease these distances for 
respective sizes ; I to H is 1 inch. Now connect these points with straight line, as shown. 

Now draft curve from H through G to A. 



HOOD NO. 3. EIGHT- YEAR-OLD. 

Diagram 135 

MEASURES. 

Bust 28 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow instructions as No. 2, with exception of following: 

B to I is S]/ 2 inches, and I to H is 2 inches ; J to K is >4 inch ; draft line B to H to line K— G— A, 
as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



263 




Diagram 134 
No. 2 



Diagram 13 5 
No. 3 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



265 




CHILDRENS COLLARS AND CUFFS 



266 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



ONE PIECE CIRCULAR CAPE. 

Diagram 136 

INSTRUCTIONS. 



I 'lace front and back shoulder together, G F. 

At back from H to B is 1 inch. 

I (raw new line from A to B. 

For sweep at bottom (J to U, pivet on point E. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 267 




Diagram 1 36 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART. 

Diagram 1)7 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw an angle from A to K and A to C. Take front and back of coat pattern, lay front on 
line A to C and hack on line A to K allowing 1 inch from J to (I. 

At hack shoulder from I to H allow '. inch for neck. 

lake length of shoulder from F to (i and make (i to II the same length. K to 1! is 1 inch for 
spring. 

For sweep at bottom from B to C pivot on point A. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



269 




Diagram 13 7 



270 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE THE INSIDE FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT. 

Diagram 138 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

At the present time the fronts are worked without canvas or haircloth, to avoid the stiffness of 
the coat. Instead use cambric, as shown on the illustration. Cut the cambric the same 
shape as the material. 

At the front, from 17 — 12 to 13 must be cut on the straight of material, the same from 5 to 16. 

Sew the outside and cambric separately, then pi ess the both seams open, and baste the seam of 
the coat with the seam of the cambric together, with one or more bastings as shown. 
Also baste the cambric around the shoulder, armhole, under the arm and down the front. 

lo work the lapel, make short stitches through the inside of the cambric, catching the cloth with- 
out showing the stitches through on the right side. Then tape the break line, 11 — 12. beiuy 
\ cry careful not to stretch the cloth, also from where the collar joins around the shape 
of lapel ease in the cloth from 17 to 12 and from 12 down to bottom. Be careful not to 
stretch or ease in the cloth. 

Between 9 — 10 cut away 3 inches of the tape, which is 1 '/> inches above and below the waist 
length. We cut away the 3 inches so as to give the garment more freedom at the waist 
line in front. 

IIOW" TO PRESS ix tup: side front of coat. 

At the underarm of coat from 3 — t fold the material oxer to 5 — 6, which will give us the crease 
line, 1 — 2. I'ress on this line as much as possible, so that the underarm, 3 — t. becomes 
perfectly straight with the front seam, 5 — 6. 

HOW TO MAKE COLLAR. 

Cut the collar bias, also short stitch the lapel and stretch well between 10 — 18, so collar will lay 
perfectly flat when turned down. When sewing the collar in the neck, ease \\ inch be- 
tween 20 — 21. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



271 




Diagram 138 



J72 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE THE FRONTS OF A TIGHT-FITTING JACKET. 

Diagram 139 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

A garment made according to these instructions will surely prove to be satisfactory in every 
respect. As shown in cut, the front has French seams. First sponge the canvas, then 
dry and press it thoroughly. After that cut out according to pattern. 

At point 1 of canvas take out a Y of •'* inch, also at the points 13 and 8. Having joined the 
edges, cover them with a piece of tape and press thoroughly so as to make seams lay Hat. 

Now cut a piece of haircloth around the armhele and bust, as shown in cut. 

Take out at points 9 and 10 ^ inch each to obtain the required fullness. This ' _> inch is cor- 
rect for 36 inch bust measure ; if the bust is larger we have to take out more ; if smaller, 
less than J/> inch. 

Now baste haircloth on the canvass, sew tape around the edges, to flatten and to prevent the 
haircloth from protruding. 

\o. 14 represents an extra piece of canvas, which is sewed as far down as point of dart to ob- 
tain more stiffness over the bust. At the waist line cut canvas as shown in the diagram. 

Make a small dart from -I — 5, sewing tape on top of it as shown before. 

On the outside, at the place where zigzag line is drawn, hold in, while pressing, to get the neces- 
sary fullness at the waist ( as shown by shadows at 6 and 7 in the diagram. ) 

Now we are ready to place the canvas with the haircloth on the left side of the goods and to sew 
both together with small bastings. 

In making the lapel use short stitches on the canvas, catching the cloth without showing on the 
right side, and giving the lapel the necessary rolling shape. Now sew tape from point 
11 to 12, and from 13 to 12 to 2 and from 3 to 15, holding in top goods and canvas while 
sewing on. 

Ketween 2 and 3 at the waist line the goods have to be stretched. 

\\ hen everything is joined press with a verv hot iron. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



273 






Diagram139 



Alterations 



276 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM A. 

Hozv to Alter : Reduce the back part from A to B, say, y 2 inch, as shown in dotted line. Then 
move B at the back part up to A, the forepart. Allow at the bottom of the back part y 2 
inch from D to C. 

FIGURE A. 

Fault: The back part wrinkles at the side. 

Cause : The back part is too short for the forepart. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



277 





278 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM B. 

How to Alter: Reduce the forepart from C to D, say, l /> inch. 
From A down to dotted line and over to K is Yz inch. 
E to F is y> inch taken off. Shape from F to G as dotted line shows. 

Square over shoulder from B through F, which locates E, and over to the original shoulder 
point. 



FIGURE B. 



Fault: Coat springs open at bottom, not enough lap. 
Cause: Front shoulder point is too long. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



279 




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280 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM C. 

Hozv to Alter: Reduce the back part from A '.o B and C to D, say, { A inch, as shown in dotted 

line. Reshape from B — D — E to F. 
D to F is the same length as C to E. 



FIGURE C. 

Fault: Coat wrinkles at the back of neck. 

Cause: There is too much back length at the back of neck. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



281 




U 
as 

O 




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< 

o 

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282 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM I). 2 

How to Alter: Reduce the sleeve from A to B and C to D, say, J/ inch or more, as shown in 
dotted line. 

Reduce the undersleeve from G to H and E to F the same amount, and reshape. 

Lengthen the top sleeve at bottom '/> inch from K to L and I to G, and )/> inch at the under- 
sleeve from K to L and I to G. 

FIGURE D. 2 

Fault: The sleeve falls in folds from the sleeve head down. 
Cause: The sleeve head is too short. 



DIAGRAM D— 1. 

Hozv to Alter: Reduce the sleeve head from 1 to 2, say, ]/i inch, as dotted line shows. 
Reduce the undersleeve from 3 to 4, the same J^ inch, as dotted line shows. 

FIGURE D— 1. 

Fault: This sleeve wrinkles at the top of the undersleeve upward. 
Cause: It has too much sleeve head. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



283 




3 




So N 
E Q 



3 P 



ho 



284 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM E. 

How to Alter: Take the fullness out at the side front only, in this case 1 inch more or less 
from C to B, slightly shaped up to A. 



FIGURE E. 
Fault : When a coat is too full in the front at bottom. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



285 




OS 

a 



a; 
O 
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286 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM F. 

Hoiv to Alter: Rip the seam at top of the side front gore and take off Y\ inch, in this case 

from A to B. Shape down to bust hue. 
The ditsance we take off from A to B add on the shoulder from C to D, as dotted line showo. 



FIGURE F. 
Fault : Front armhole too full. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



287 




to 

v 
u 

a 
bo 




to 
S 

fa 
W 



288 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM G. 

How to Alter: Rip the seam at top of the side back gore and take oft" -54 inch in this case. 
From A — B shape down below the bust line to I. The distance we lake off from A to I! add 
on the shoulder from C to D, as dotted line shows. 



FIGURE G. 
Fault: Rack armhole too full. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



289 




O 




290 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM.iN. 



DIAGRAM H. 

How to Alter: Rip coat open at the bottom and allow at the side back gore from V to C 1 incl 
more or less, slightly shaped to A, as dotted line shows. 

FIGURE H. 

Fault: When a coat wrinkles across the back at waist line. 
Cause : The coat is too tight over the hip at back. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



291 




3 
bid 

iE 




c 

I— 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM J. 

How to . liter: Allow at the hack from 1! to A and D to C 54 inch. 
Reshape shoulder from C to F, as dotted line shows. 



FIGURE J. 

Fault: When a coat falls in folds down center had-:. 
( ause: The coat is cut out ton deep at the hack of neck. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



293 




3 
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E 







J94 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



INDEX 

INTRODI I I I <>.\ 5 

ru SECOND EDITION 6 

. ROPORTIONAJ MEASUREMENTS V 

PROPORTIONA] WIDTHS 10 

PROPORTIONAL LENGTHS 11 

[TONS FOR TAKING MEASURES 12 

I u KET LESSON 1 14 

i LESSON 2 16 

BAI K LOOSE i RONT 18 

IH. Ill BAC] LOOSE FRONT, COMPLETE 20 

II'. Ill FITTING BACK, Willi TWO DARTS 22 

ii, Ml FITTING BACK, I. < M >SE FRONTS, FRENCH SEAMS 24 

riG i i n fACKET FRENCH SEAMS 26 

in i I VR COAt SLEEVE 28 

How TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP 30 

HOW in MAKE REGULAR SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER 32 

BISHOP SI I EVE 34 

FITTING Willi UNDER Go RE 36 

SEMI-FITTING Co.\T Willi SEAMS AT SIDES AND SAILOR COLLAR 38 

LOOSE 5EM1 F1TT1 NG COAT 40 

FITTIN i Willi SHAWL COLLAR 42 

SEVEN-EIGHTHS FITTING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE 44 

HIPLESS i i i \ I 46 

ii" SE STRAIGHT LINE COAT 48 

MONTE CARLO COAT 50 

IWii I'll i i: COAT 52 

SE BOX COAT 54 

ULSTER WITH S EPA KATE SKIRT 56 

LOi 5E COAT, RAGLAN SLEEVE 58 

HOW lo PLACE DARTS IN FRONT OF RAGLAN 60 

HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A BLOCK PATTERN, LOOSE COAT 62 

llnW Hi MAKE A CoAl' WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM BLOCK PATTERN 64 

FOR DEEP ARMHOLE 66 

COLLARLESS SEMI-F1 [TING KIMONO COAT 68 

SHAWL COLLAR WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN 70 

31 I ON COLLAR \\l> LAPEL SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN 72 

rWO-PIECE KIMONO COA1 WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN 74 

- I FRONT JACKET, THREE-EIGHTHS SEAMS ALLOWED 76 

XI NE I !■ EN GORE Cl IRSET I \CKET 78 

r ACKT 80 

\\ BLOUSE 82 

TIGHT FITTING FACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT 84 

SE FRONT FACKET Willi TIGHT FITTING VEST 86 

LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST 88 

TIGHT FITTING VEST 90 

HIKE ! AC KET 92 

NORFOLK JACKET 94 

■ 1 1' I i i IK JACKET 96 

hi DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER 98 

- I \l 1 i I I I I \c, COAT Will I VEST AMI DROP SHOULDER 100 

I II REE PIECE STORM COLLAR 102 

CHILD'S TURNED DOWN COLLAR 104 

S'l \ND1NG COLLAR 106 

I URNED DOWN COLLAR 106 

Ilnw DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN 108 

OPERA CLOAK 110 

Hi WITH DOLMAN SLEEVE 112 

III III Mi J 114 

I H HI' NO. 4 116 

mi MAN \o. 5 118 

DOT.M AN No. i-, 120 

DOLMAN No. 7 122 

I" 'I MAN NO. 8 124 

WITH ONE DART 126 

CAPE WITH TWO DARTS 128 

i OAI I! /LAN'S FUR CAPE 130 

How TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT 132 

IH IW TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT (Continued) 134 

I I STER \o. 1 136 

I ■ LSTER NO. 2 138 

i ESS DRESS 140 

HOOD Mi. I 142 

I I ' ' ' 144 

Hi ii iD NO. 3 144 

KNEE I EGGINS 146 

SHOE LEGGINS 146 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 295 



INDEX 

Pa(!« 

WAISTS, FIRST LESSUN 150 

WAISTS, SECOND LESSON 132 

TIGHT FITTED LINING, FRENCH SEAMS 1^4 

TIGHT LINING SHIRT WAIST WITH ONE GORE 156 

TIGHT FITTING TWO PIECE LINING 158 

BLOUSE SHIRT WAIST 16" 

DIAGRAM 82 162 

TURN OVER COLLAR 164 

BISHOP SLEEVE 166 

TIGHT LINING SLEEVE 166 

TIGHT FITTING PRINCESS, FOUR PIECES 168 

BLOUSE WAIST, DROP SHOULDER 170 

BLOUSE WAIST WITH DEEP ARMHOLE 1/2 

HOW TO MAKE KIMONO SLEEVE FROM BLOCK PATTERN 174 

WAIST WITH KIMONO SLEEVE 176 

MANNISH SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE 178 

HOW TO MAKE A SHAWL COLLAR AND LAPEL 180 

HOW TO MAKE A NOTCH COLLAR 182 

HOW TO MAKE A SAILOR COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN 184 

HIPLESS OR HOBBLE SKIRT IN ONE PIECE 188 

EMPIRE SKIRT 190 

HOBBLE SKIRT WITH ONE PLEAT ON SIDE 192 

HOBBLE SKIRT 194 

PANTALOON SKIRT 196 

CIRCULAR SKIRT : 198 

THREE GORE SKIRT 200 

FIVE GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT 202 

FIVE GORE SKIRT 204 

SEVEN GORE SKIRT 206 

NINE GORE SKIRT 208 

ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE '■■■■■ 210 

ELEVEN GORE FLARE SKIRT 212 

THIRTEEN GORE- PLEATED SKIRT 214 

FIFTEEN GORE SKIRT 216 

SAFETY RIDING SKIRT 220 

BACK PART OF SKIRT 222 

ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING DIFFERENT POSITIONS OF SAFETY RIDING HABITS 224 

RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE. FRONT PART 226 

RIDING HABIT. SIDE SADDLE. BACK PART 228 

DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT 230 

RIDING BREECHES 232 

PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS. CHILDREN'S 234 

PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, MISSES & JUNIORS' 235 

FIRST LESSON 236 

SECOND LESSON : 238 

EIGHT YEAR OLD REEFER 240 

SEMI-FITTING COAT. EIGHT YEARS 242 

SEMI-FITTING FRENCH SEAMS. EIGHT YEARS 244 

EIGHT YEAR OLD BOX COAT 246 

PLAIN COAT SLEEVE 248 

BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS 250 

EIGHT YEAR OLD KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT 252 

HOW TO MAKE A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN 254 

DRAFT A SLEEVE 254 

EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS 256 

EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOUT SEAMS 256 

ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN 258 

HOOD NO. 1, EIGHT YEARS 260 

HOOD NO. 2, EIGHT YEARS 262 

HOOD NO. 3, EIGHT YEARS '" 262 

ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING CHILDREN'S COLLARS" ANT)" CUFFS 264 

ONE PIECE CIRCULAR CAPE 266 

CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART '" '" 268 

HOW TO MAKE THE INSIDE FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT ..'. 2 " n 

HOW TO MAKE THE FRONTS OF A TIGHT FITTING TACKET 272 

HOW TO MAKE ALTERATIONS " 274 

FIGURE A, DIAGRAM A '" 276 

FIGURE B, DIAGRAM B '" 27S 

FIGURE C, DIAGRAM C . '" 280 

FIGURE D-l, DIAGRAM D-l '" 282 

FIGURE D-2, DIAGRAM D-2 '" " 282 

FIGURE. E, DIAGRAM E '" 2S4 

FIGURE F. DIAGRAM F '" 286 

FIGURE G. DIAGRAM G '" 288 

FIGURE H. DIAGRAM H '"' 2 Q n 

FIGURE J, DIAGRAM T "' 292 



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